Routes in Banff for selected grade

Named after a huge gooseberry bush once found in the final pitch chimney, this is a classic multipitch, as much for its location as the quality of the rock. The route does not rely on very much gear, having been bolted fairly liberally over the years.

All belay stations are bolted.

Approach: from the intersection of Tunnel Mountain Road and Drive, walk across the open field to the far right corner. Take the trail down and left towards the left-end of Tunnel Mountain. Contour across until you reach the cliff, go a bit farther, and arrive at the start -- the name is scratched in the rock.

Start at the name scratched in the rock.

1. 5.4 30m. Climb easy slab right of the corner past some fixed gear to a belay station to the right.

2. 5.6 40m. Move up and left to a bit of a ramp to a large right-facing corner. Arrive at a treed ledge and bolted belay behind the trees.

3. 5.8 45m. Start left of the belay, climb up and left to a left-facing corner. Avoid following the bolts out left, or on the slab left of the corner -- but pull into the corner itself where there's a fixed piton. Climb up the corner past some bolts, then up the wall above (more bolts) to a belay to the right.

4. 5.6 25m. Pull up and left over a small bulge, then up and left to a left-facing corner. Continue up this to a bolted belay on a ledge (there are two, seperated by a few meters and a bolt).

5. 5.8 50m. Climb up the bolted face, passing excellent chert edges in the second half of the pitch to a bolted anchor -- clip this long, then traverse up and right on the large sloping ledge to another anchor.

6. 5.7 35m. Move up and left on rough rock to a groove capped by a roof. Go up this to a piton, then branch left following bolts to an anchor on a ledge, once again clip this long then traverse rightwards to the belay.

7. 5.7 35m. Move left and then do some awkward moves (at a bolt) into the chimney. A few meters up the chimney, follow bolts left on an easy ramp then up over more chert ledges to a chain belay; once again clip and continue up towards the trees, where there is a bolted belay on a big boulder.

Descent: walk up to the tourist trail, then descend it. Walk along the road back to the car.

A fun flake climb to a awkward mantel and finish. Very questionable rock. Has been cleaned loads but still.........blame the pomey, Dav Stevens for deciding to bolt choss. Left of winterfell

First route you see. Awkward ledges lead to an easy bulge and some slab climbing.

Flake climbing down low leads to a big diagonal break at the base of a right facing corner. A healthy spacing of bolts will keep you on your toes. There is a route called Force Full (10b) that starts at the anchors and finishes past the roof.

An fun little classic for its grade. Climb the juggy flake, transfer to a easy slab move, layback the juggy crack. One of the best for grade in the valley

Up repetitive slopers and bulges

On a left-facing wall to the left of the RUDED2 wall. Two routes on this wall, this one is the farthest left. Cool climbing up blocky rock with smooth, not so obvious hands. Follow the bolts up to the left toward the open book.

Cool climbing up blocky rock with nice hands and feet.

Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(?)crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis on Canada climbing webpages

sustained and good value for its grade.

Roadside Left, first from left.

This is a perfect finger crack that can be climbed safely on gear. Use the finger crack the full length of the crack while stemming across to the perfect corner. This route is bolted with 4 bolts, but they should all be cut out because the route can be safely climbed on gear.

Roadside Central, first from left

The Ledge, fifth from left

Start on edge and sidepull, leading up to big holds

Sit start on thin edges, go to edges then to big holds

Climb the slippery arete

Start on big ledge then up The polished arete.

Start on flake to big edge and around the arete

Start on edges up lip. #20 on map

Start on flake to edges and top. #16

Start on arete to flake then across. #18 on map

Start at the wide crack approx. 9m right of the regular start, continue up the chimney and traverse left at 15m up a steep ramp to a belay ledge below the corner Continue pitches 2 and 3 as per Kraut Pinnacle