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University Wall Mostly Sport climbing 19 routes in crag

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 5
19
YDS
5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a5.13c5.14a5.14c5.15a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

PDF Topo

Approach

Approach as for McGillivary Canyon (35 minutes).

History

History timeline chart

Originally, development started here in around 2006, by Ross Suchy, Mark Fraser, Craigh Hyslop and Jeff Relf. Only Sphinx was sent, but several more projects were bolted.

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Contents

Routes

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Left Back to contents

The left side of the University Wall is astoundingly blank and beautiful. The easiest line is 13a, and the hardest is 14d.

2
5.11a ★★ Müffene Sport

On the opposite side of the canyon about 30m before you hit university wall proper.

FA: Miles Adamson, 2019

3
5.12b ★★★ Curb Stomp a Dead Deer in Crocs Sport 7

FA: Miles Adamson, Jul 2019

4
5.13a ★★ Letterbuck Sport

A harder version of it's neighbor. Likely soft at 13a however it hasn't yet officially been downgraded yet.

Set: Mark Fraser

FA: Ross Suchy, 2006

5
5.13c Sphinx Alt Sport

Set: Miles Adamson

FA: Dexter Bateman, Jul 2020

6
5.13c Sphinx Sport

Set: Jeff Relf

FA: Ross Suchy, 2006

7
5.14d Impostor Syndrome Sport

Set: Mark Fraser & Craigh Hyslop

FA: Miles Adamson, 30 Jul 2020

8
5.13d Feed the Beast Sport

Set: Marc Eveleigh & Scott Eveleigh

FA: Zach Watson, Jul 2020

9
5.15a Semantics Sport

FFA: Miles Adamson, Nov 2022

10
5.14a Smells like Teen Fascism SportProject

Set: Ross Suchy

FA: Miles Adamson, 2020

11
5.13a Pass the Dog Sport

Set: Dexter Bateman

FA: Braden Bester, Jul 2020

12
Pass the Dog Extension SportProject

Open project

Set: Dexter Bateman

13
5.13c Blow at High Dough Sport

FA: Dexter Bateman, Jun 2020

Right Back to contents

The right side of the University Wall is slightly shorter, and just as blank. While there are horizontal breaks which generally have holds, the face climbing here is very thin with next to no feet. This is especially true below the first bolt, because the 2013 flood lowered the ground significantly.

15
5.13a Escape is at Hand for the Travelin' Man UnknownProject

Set: Dexter Bateman

FA: Zach Watson, 2020

16
Miles' Open Project SportProject

Set: Miles Adamson

17
5.13a ★★★ Death by Hoax Sport

A burly boulder problem through the first 2 bolts leads to a few more hard moves through a blank bulge and finally a rest. Easier but still strenuous climbing to the top.

FA: Miles Adamson, 2020

18
5.14c/d Matts Open Project SportProject

Set: Matt Hendsbee

19
5.13a You’re Talking About a Sex Robot That Could Carry Me to Atlantis Like It’s a Bad Thing Sport

Set: Miles Adamson

FA: Zach Watson, Jul 2020

20
5.12c Dusty the Cat Sport 16m, 6

FA: Miles Adamson, 2020

21
5.12d Hello by Baby, Hello my Britannay Sport

FA: Dexter Bateman

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Bow Valley Sport 3rd Edition

Author(s): Derek Galloway

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781777147112

The Bow Valley is known amongst sport climbers as some of the best summer climbing in Canada. The third edition of this comprehensive guide includes the newest crags, as well as the best cliffs that Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise has to offer. Tips on trip planning and rest day activities, info on the local flora and fauna, and tof topos and action shots get you psyched for your visit.

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5.12b ★★★ Curb Stomp a Dead Deer in Crocs
5.13a ★★★ Death by Hoax

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Mon 15 May
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