Routes in Canmore for selected grade

An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs.

Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor.

Alternate start.

This is a great route with some scary but safe moves over multiple hanging slabs.

Very hard to read and quite perplexing in sections. Another technical masterpiece at the Lookout on amazing stone.

Labour Pains 5.11+ (3 pitches) 1 X 70m rope

If your looking for a quick multipitch after work or you’ve made the trek up for Tall Storey, only to find it occupied don’t fret. Three long beautiful pitches await you! You won’t be disappointed cruising through black chert bands, or laybacking up perfect corners or getting lost in a sea of “holdless” grey perfection. In fact you’ll probably be wishing you could keep going. In which case after pitch three follow the ledge left to it's end and continue up Tall Storey.

Descent Make three long rappels straight down. From the top of pitch two rap straight down to a hanging rap station and not the top of pitch one. Tie a knot it your ropes as they are rope stretchers and may use up every inch of your rope.

Walking off is possible but not all that pleasant. Follow the ledge down to the scree slope below The Notch.

If your not sure your rope is long enough and no one is on Tall Storey you can make four raps to the ground using Tall Storey’s rap route.

Pitch 1 5.11d 11 bolts (30m) Multiple cruxes will have you working hard on pitch one. Pull past a small roof right off the ground directly into strenuous climbing with hard to locate grips, followed by a sequential roof encounter in the middle and finish with an airy couple of moves left into beautiful chert knobs. Belay on the good ledge.

Pitch 2 5.11 11 bolts (34m) A Stunner! Powerful climbing right off the belay leads to lay-backing up a small corner. At it’s top traverse right on a handrail before finishing up the big left facing corner. Belay on the ledge at the top of the corner.

Pitch 3 5.11+ 12 bolts (34m) From the belay climb to the right and on top of a large ledge. From the ledge climb left into a sea of perfect grey stone weaving back and forth on whatever holds you can scrounge up. Anchors located just over the top of the wall.

Climb the bluish yellow groove to a short left facing corner. A tricky section of climbing leads to easier ground.

Climbs the short blue rock. Harder, then it looks and alot of wandery climbing. 5.11b/c.

The direct line up the wall. Best 5.11 on this wall! Super Classic movement and stone. Abit of everything!

Starts at the left end of the halfway ledge. Some loose rock between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, followed by mostly excellent rock to the top of the route.

Climb first light to the ledge. Continue straight up via steep jugs and a very long move to a more technical finish. When dry this route makes a great warm up!

Climb the biggest buckets to a funky low powerful move over the bulge. A huge middle rest gets you prepared for an epic fight through sequential jugs over the steepest part. A big move gains, guess what? More buckets

The crux is very committing, but make sure to leave something in the tank for the last few crimpy holds to gain the anchor.

This short but steep route has 2 Boulder problems (cruxes) of different flavours separated by a no hands rest.

A short crux into an awesome corner.

Climb Sling Thing to the third bolt. Branch right using hard to find holds to gain security on the flakes. A tricky leftward move leads to a lightning bolt corner. Continue up and left via awesome but sporty terrain.

Climb Sling Thing to the third bolt. Branch right using hard to find holds to gain the security of the flakes. A tricky leftward move leads to the lighting bolt corner. Continue up and left via awesome but sporty terrain.

Follow the prow using the crack and arete to the left. Sit start with a match on the undercling.

This climb tackles the obvious arete with the loose starting block. Sit start with two hands on the under cling block feature. work up the block feature on the arete until you can lunge up to good sloper. Most people duck out left to top out but it can be finished with a hard mantle following a direct line up the arete. The direct finish is a slightly harder grade

Sit start left of bashful on the blunt edge of the rock. The climb traverse right past an obvious horn which is part of bashful, remain low until the end of the lower rail, then make some powerful moves to the lip.

Sit start on the jugs and pull up to the slab for a challenging finish.

Start as per dopey and traverses into Sleepy. Finish the climb on Sleepy for the top out.

Starts 40m right of the Homer-Wood route at the base of 2 left leaning cracks. This route was established on-sight, ground up and hammerless in a 36hr push car to car. Pretty impeccable style considering the compact nature of the rock in this area.

P1 - Move into a left facing corner to a loose-looking overhang. Pull through on the left and traverse left on good holds to a crack. (40m, 5.10dR)

P2 - Follow the crack (50m, 5.10a).

P3 - Follow the crack (20m, 5.9).

P4 - Continue up the crack past 2 small overhangs. (45m, 5.10c).

P5 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.8).

P6 - Step left to a flake then follow back right to the same crack system and continue up. (50m, 5.9).

P7 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.9).

P8 - Step up and right to a left facing corner and follow this up to belay below a roof. (45m, 5.10a).

P9 - Continue up and left to a shallow right facing corner then shallow left facing corner to belay on a ledge on the left below a steep corner with blocks. (60m, 5.10a).

P10 - Step right to a right facing corner which you climb until it starts to trend further right. Here step left to a left facing corner following it up to a ledge which intersects with the Homer-Wood route. (55m, 5.10a).

P11 - Climb the crack to a roof, step right then continue up the crack to easier ground. (50m, 5.10a).

Follow lots of 4th class scrambling until you intersect with the ridge and then several more rope lengths of low 5th class to the summit.

Rock is reported to be good though compact with a selection of pitons required for both runners and belays. Approach as for Candle in the Wind hiking along the NE face until 30-40m right of the prominent wet streak.

Gear - full rack to 3 inches including micro cams. 6 pitons, mostly knifeblades and 60m ropes. The first 6 pitches are set up for rappel.

P1 - Climb a left facing corner before heading left to under a roof then right to a small ledge at a left facing corner. (55m 5.6).

P2 - Climb a series of small corners and belay on a ledge at the base of a right facing corner (50m, 5.10-).

P3 - Climb the corner to reach a curving crack out right before heading back left to belay at the base of a scree gully (55m 5.9).

P4 - Move the belay 10m higher then climb a series of right facing corners and a small chimney to a belay (55m 5.7).

P5 - Climb another short chimney and then a large pinnacle. Head right along a ledge to the base of a left facing corner and belay bolt. (50m, 5.6).

P6 - Climb to the left of the corner and belay on a small ledge. (30m 5.10+).

P7 - Work up and left to a 2 bolt belay below a small roof. (20m, 5.10-).

P8 - Climb a short steep slab past 3 bolts before continuing up long angle slabs to a belay. (55m 5.11).

P9 - Climb a right trending slot to a large ledge before continuing up corners to a second ledge. (60m 5.7).

P10 - Head up short corners and slot to reach 3rd class terrain which leads to the summit. (25m 5.10-).

There are bolts on harder sections.

Chossy jugs down low lead to a blank groove and more jugs to the top.