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Cave of Wonders Mostly Sport climbing 18 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 28

Rock: Seeping

The cave was seeping on May 2, 2024.

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Created 24 days ago

Rock: Rock and Hardware

The routes at Cave of Wonders have been double and tripled checked, but they haven't seen a ton of traffic yet. For that reason, there might be the odd loose rock or piece of hardware.

Bring a wrench in case you need to tighten any bolts.

Climb conservatively and be very cautious wandering off-route.

Consider the remote access and logistics of a rescue in your risk assessments. It's a great idea - and required on many routes - to use a stick clip. There's a community stick clip in the Bivvy Cave for everyone to use.

Be safe and enjoy!

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Created 8 months ago
18
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a5.13c5.14a5.14c

Seasonality

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F
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A
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J
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D

Description

An incredible, huge cave with a stunning roof and face above.

Access issues inherited from Cave of Wonders

The cliffs are located on the traditional lands of the Algonquin people and are situated on MNR managed crownland. Please respect the land and its resources. Follow strict Leave No Trace practices. Be mindful of locals and cottagers along the gravel road: drive slowly! Respect the recommended closures during the fall hunting season. And do not risk a fire at the crags – it’s not worth it!

Approach

From the approach trail, take the path along the base of the Bivvy Cave wall to the right, up some steps and around a large boulder.

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Routes

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1
5.10b ★★ Straight Fire Mixed trad 8m, 1

Climb the offwidth in the right facing corner to the roof. Traverse right under the roof, clip the bolt, then tip toe to the anchor.

Set: Jeff Rivard

FFA: Jeff Rivard

2
5.8 ★★ Direct Fire Sport 8m, 3

A fun and easy alternative to Straight Fire. Shares same anchor. First bolt is meant to be stick clipped.

FFA: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr

Set: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr

3
Fired Up Closed project SportProject

Continues past the 5.8 Direct Fire anchors. Closed project. Red tagged

Set: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr

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4
5.10b ★★ 40 Thieves Sport 22m, 12

Easiest long length sport climb at cliff. Lots of holds but be sure to look around before committing to crux as it might not be obvious.

FFA: Alexander

5
5.11b ★ Snakes and Ladders Sport 24m, 10

This one will make you think at 3 diffrent crux's, it's all there, be patient. Extend 4th and 8th bolt to help reduce rope drag and clip into the perma-draw on the way down to eliminate a dangerous swing when cleaning.

FFA: KieranNorth, 26 Aug 2023

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6
5.11d ★★ Snakeskin Sport 22m, 10

Work through a very cool overhanging dihedral to gain the dirty ledge, finish by linking up and pulling the crux of "Snakes and Ladders".

FFA: KieranNorth, 26 Aug 2023

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7
5.12a ★★★ Iago's Roof Sport 28m, 10

Stick clip high first bolt to protect hard moves out the cave. 3 fixed draws, then hang on through the roof traverse. Bring 7 draws + anchor.

FFA: Daniel Snelson

8
5.13a/b ★★★ First Wish Sport 30m, 11

Climbs the first 4 bolts of the route going towards the roof, but then follow the bolts going left on the jug traverse. Then finish on Iago's Roof.

FFA: Joe

9
5.13d ★★★ Second Wish Sport 30m, 11

Climb up to the huge roof. Traverse left under the roof where the final crux awaits. Finish off on Iago's Roof.

FFA: Joe

10
5.14 Third Wish SportProject 14

Open Project. Climbs straight through the huge roof. Bring every tool in the toolbox for this project.

11
5.12 ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride Sport

Start just left of “Smoke and Mirrors”. Same start as the roof open project, but at the third fix draw continue to traverse through the steam of jugs. Links into “ Iago Roof”. Super fun jug pulling!

FA: Joe skopec

12
Open project2 Sport

Starts just left of “Smoke and Mirrors”. Clip the first 3 fix draws and then go straight up through the huge roof.

Set: Joe skopec

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13
5.14- ★★★ Smoke and Mirrors Sport 30m, 11

Very tricky beta for the first half of the route. Then the huge roof becomes even more smoke and mirrors non sense.

FFA: Joe

14
5.14b/c ★★★ Open Sesame Sport

Climb the thin crack towards the huge roof. Climb through the roof while trying to open an elevator door on bad crimps while being upside down. Hit the lip and pray your core hits in. Then crimp your way through the vertical top.

FFA: Joe skopec

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15
Open Project Sport

Starts just left of “Rajah” and has the same finish as Rajah. There is a random bolt out left half way up. This bolt will be removed or a route might be bolted out left one day.

16
5.12b ★★★ Rajah Sport 25m

Pumpy moves throughout the overhang to a slab crux mid way. Make sure to use the clip the chain to the climbers rope while cleaning the draws to prevent the rope from sliding across the cliff.

FFA: Joe

17
5.12c ★★★ Xerxes Sport 25m, 12

4 bolt warm up, then 5 bolts of power endurance through the left leaning crack and roof.

FFA: Darya Schedrina

Set: Daniel Snelson

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18
5.11d ★★ Riff Raff Sport 25m, 11

A fun slab crux, which leads into big jug moves over the roof.

FFA: Joe

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ontario Climbing: Volume 2 The Northern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Buy
ⓘ
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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5.12a ★★★ Iago's Roof
5.12c ★★★ Xerxes

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KieranNorth on ★★★ Iago's Roof 5.12a - Iagos Roof

Mon 29 May
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