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1 6a+ 25m
2 6b 30m
3 7a+ 25m

description

An absolutely awesome route with great exposure and rock structures you have to see to believe!

Access the start by hiking up to the cave. It is best to prepare in the cave and leave your stuff there. Scramble up the ledge on polished rock on the left of the cave and look for the tufa column on your right.

As of May-2019 only the first 2 pitches have been rebolted - as with all routes at the Costanera watch the bolts if they are not re-bolted glue-ins!!

  • Pitch 1: 9 bolts; Start right of the tufa column and up into the cave to exit it to the left. Follow great holds to an anchor right of the "Mucho Pumpito Ledge" - a very comfortable belay for pitch 2. The anchor consists of 3 unlinked glue-ins.

  • Pitch 2: 11 bolts plus a couple of slings; follow the super exposed overhanging arete out right on increadible holds for 30m of pure fun. A no-hands rest at the tufa in the middle might reduce the pump. A sports anchor is located on top of the ledge.

  • Pitch 3: A short pitch out right (the original last pitch). Many people do not climb this pitch, if you do, lower down to the anchor and rap from there to the ground. An alternative to the left is available as well (see "Pssst!" pitch 3).

Route history

2000First ascent: Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross & David Ryan

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 22.68866, -83.71879

Grade citation

6a+, 6b, 7a+ Assigned grade
6a private

ethic

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

inherited from Cuba

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 100 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2
Red point 1
Tick 1

Comment keywords

steep hands hard exposed amazing super brilliant fun

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Mon 15 May
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