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description

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

  • 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
  • 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
  • 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
  • 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
  • 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
  • 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
  • 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
  • 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
  • 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
  • 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
  • 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
  • 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
  • 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
  • 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
  • 2018, July, Piotr Schab
  • 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
  • 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
  • 2020, Sébastien Bouin
  • 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
  • 2023, May, Matty Hong

Route history

1989Route setter: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
Jul 2001First ascent: Chris Sharma
4 Jun 2021Notable ascent: Margo Hayes

First Woman to climb a 5.15

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 44.49797, 5.94860

Grade citation

9a+ Assigned grade
36 ross taylor
5.15+? private
6c [6b - 6c+] -- grAId
9a+

ethic

Leave no trace.

inherited from Céüse

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 12
Attempt 1

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rolland Marie & Laurent Girousse

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9782958860509

The semi-circular, nearly endless wall of Céüse offers some 750 single pitches - some multi-pitches as well as traditionally equipped routes / difficulties from 5 to 9.

Author(s): Laurent Girousse

Date: 2023

This latest edition features all the routes on the cliff: 900 pitches spread across 37 sectors and sub-sectors. Each one is accompanied by a photo and route illustration. Various approaches are described precisely and supported by panoramic photos. For 25 years, this cliff has been a part of the global high-level climbing scene, mainly known for its challenging to extreme routes. However, nowadays, Céüse is no longer exclusive to the elite, as several recently re-bolted sectors allow everyone to enjoy this exceptional wall.

The author of this guidebooks, Laurent Girousse, is one of the main bolters of the crags around Gap.

Author(s): L. Girousse

Date: 2022

Many sport climbing routes and long multi-pitches - from Dévoluy to Champsaur to Buëch and Méouge, the south of the Hautes-Alpes offers a great variety of climbing areas in magnificent landscapes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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