First six quickdraws are not that hard (maybe 7b) on juggy tufas but already extremely overhanging (could do this in one piece in my second try). Then, there is a part without tufas and I couldn't do two single moves. From the last bolt to the anchor it's again easier. Extremely powerful, I have to improve my max power for this.
Steep start into the route. Some tricky moves to get through some sections. For me this was the hardest pitch of the route, maybe because it was the warmup.
Technical and vertical wall. Never supereasy and blender superhard. Always time to rest in between. Awesome pitch.
46b
40
Second
lead by
Dirk
Long pitch, starts with a juggy traverse to the left and crosses the wall to the right. A shortslabby section with some crimps are the crux of this pitch. The traverse before the anchor is pretty easy if you find all holds.
Every pitch is pretty cool. Mostly steep climbing with very good hand and footholds. All in all relatively soft for the grade, compared to other routes on the other side of the gorge.
Niceverticalface climbing. Got to the second to last quickdraw where I ran out of power. Going from the last quickdraw to the anchor is quite hard - you have to establish yourself on the slab above the vertical part of the wall.
Nice route. Starts in the back of a small cave. First, you traverse to your left on underclings in a roof before turning the lip. Apart from one hard move to reach the tufa on your left, the part after the lip is just jugs and a really good climb.
Called 'La Hulkotte Clandestine' in our guidebook. A shorter route, but the moves are continuously hard right from the start all the way to the anchors. Felt harder than all the other routes I tried and it's definitely harder than 7b+ in my opinion.
Easy up to the overhanging section, then pumpy to the anchors. Fell at the second to last quickdraw when it's easier to take some holds below you instead of continuing upwards.
