Routes in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur for selected grade

Between "Bibliographie" and "L’Étrange Ivress".

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade.

Three big dynos.

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

Second pitch to Lapinerie

A variant of Face bouc.

#sd

#sd Combination of 'traverse de surprise' with 'Agent de la paix Ghesquiers'

Links "Une Arquée pour un criquet" and "La Croix de To Loose".

Variante de "La Proue Débridée".

Départ dans l'irreverence et sortie à gauche. Resi puis bloc.

L1 irreverence 8c puis après un repos total on fait environ 25 mouvements bien puissants

Belle ligne très rési en bon dévers.

Classe. Bloc puis rési. Super extension.

Ancien 8b "purifié" de ses prises taillées pour une jolie voie quasiment toute naturelle à présent. La plus jolie voie en 9 d'Orgon. 2 sections blocs sur petites prises en bon dévers.

25 powerfull moves.

💎💎💎💎💎

Variant of En verve et contre tous. Shares the first bolt and the anchor. Downgraded by Alex Megos

Right of “Mélodie pour un ami ardéchois".

Bouldery start, followed by some easier moves and a hard boulder problem that leads to the final tufa which marks the end of the hostilities.

Direct start of Rêve de Poutre.

Adam Ondra attempted to on-sight this route but broke a key hold in the crux section. He believes the route is still possible.Alex Megos climbs the route in 2021 and graded the Route with 9a/+

Bloc puis rési. Classe. Grotte à droite de la face nord.

Ros devers qui démarre par une section bloc en plafond sur de très mauvaises réglettes. Classe et original.

Majeur et bien dévers.

Start by "Perplexe" (8b+), and continue on "Le Complexe Adipeux Intégral" (8c+) where there is a 7C boulder problem.

François Legrand bolted Perplexe and tried to send Sans Complexe in 2007, but he failed.

Erwan Legrand, his son, done the First Ascent in January 2023 and rated it 8c+/9a.

Doing all the hard part of "L'Intégral Du Play Boy" (8c+), but when L'Intégral crosses to the right, the route continues straight.

Then there is a big dyno in the roof and a short enduring section for going to a very big rest. After this big rest, there is still a very demanding, short and bouldery 8b/+ with very big moves which are a little bit morphological (hard if you are less than 1,75 M).

This route is long, magnificient, amazing, and also a mega - line.

Video of Lucien Martinez :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r7W5DT2dlg

Super ligne. Assez bloc au milieu et bien à doigts à la fin.

Pitch 2 of La Baume

Originaly graded 8c+. Since "Rémy Bergasse" FA, a hold broke in the crux now 9a/a+.

Départ UFO sortie XXL.

Same start as "Symbiose", goes straight up and end at "Apothéose" anchor.

First part of "phoenix" and second part of "southern light" . Logical line.

Nice crimpy climb

An old François Legrand 8c+ . Some holds broke at the beginning of the route . Now it's 9a.

Une section bloc tres à doigts en tres léger dévers puis une dalle bien technique. Rocher magnifique.

Sit start.

Grade to be confirmed.

Gérome started working the direct version in 2004 after sending the classic right finish (8c+). He came back to work it in 2009 and again in 2010 when conditions were better. That year, it took him six days to free it.

Starts with a few technical moves and finishes on a sketchy slab.

Originally suggested as a 9a+ also graded with 9a (https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/video-anatole-bosio-mit-dritter-begehung-von-aubade-direct-9a/)

Version "soft" de aubade directe. Très belle voie.

According to Charlotte Durif, the route can be split in 3 sections. The lower third that consists of half of "Pue le fion" 8b+ with two or three small key movements a little morpho; the middle third with three very technical key moves and a very tough section; and a third section with three serious key movements of "Pull Over" 8c+.

Third female 9a by Charlotte Durif (18 août 2011).

This route is made of two parts:

• the first part is a resistant and physical 8c+, followed by a good rest.
• the second part is an 8c taking place in the steepest part of the work that will drain your stamina...

Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+.

Sébastien Bouin on : https://youtu.be/6R1_la0hNW0

Same start as "Le Voyage" but then left. Not yet graded but likely very hard.

Majeur. Connexion "jeunet vrillé" /"casi mono". 60 mouvements. Rocher dément.