Routes in France for selected grade

Traversee aller et retour (Travers, back and forth) #traverse

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C.R.S stands for "Cowboy a Reaction Stupide" (Cowboys reacting stupidly) and is also the acronym for the anti-protest French forces, not really known for their brain power.

For such a short route, only 22m, the route must pack a punch!

Adam says “The style is definitely power resistance. There’s a very physical roof on pinches and pockets leading to a very crimpy exit on the final bulge"

It took Adam 3 days to work the route and at the time was his fastest 9b ascent.

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYV9yASRBI

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to the right of Fatman, along the blue path. Start in Gourmandise and exit directly in Le Dernier Fléau.

Combines the sitstart of "Le Dernier Fléau" and "Gourmandise".

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This grade has been proposed by Arione Bertone after her 2020 send of the problem.

Estimated at 8B+ by Lucien Martinez in 2021.

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#sd ; Same start as Chaos but then right. Initially graded 8C+, downgraded by Jimmy Webb.

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Extension of "Legend".

This is Beyond with its extension

Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty.

The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).

Description

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The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.

Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route.

Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B.

All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

Rési avec une grosse section bloc au milieu. Gros dévers.

New start between Macumba Club (8c) and Bronx (8c+), with two hard crux (8A+ and 7C+ boulder), finishing right into La Connexion (8c+).

Start in Brooklyn (9b) to finish in Bronx (8c+).

Linking the first half of Bronx (8c+) to the second crux of Sashidananda (9a/+), whith a hard sequence in between.

Début dans Sachidananda et sortie dans Bronx

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'. More infos @ www.kletterblock.de

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'.

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

Direct start to "Destruction" right in the cave. More at kletterblock.de