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Pilier - Dièdre Mostly Sport climbing 43 routes in sector

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 89
  • Aka: Milieu
43
FR
5c6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+7c+8a+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Saint Loup

Several options to park in Pompaples, including the car park of the Hospital which will cost you a few CHF. It is also possible to have a quicker access to sectors "Le Chaney" by parking in a small parking lot along the road between Pompaples and Croy. By train, you shall alight at La Sarraz and walk towards Pompaples and then the main Cliff (about 25 min)

Ethic inherited from Saint Loup

Respect the place and its surroundings. Pay attention to wildlife. There are periods of the year where some sectors are "closed" in order to let nature do its magic. Make sure you respect the quietness of the hospital surroundings.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
7a+ Académie des vols Sport 40m
1 7a
2 7a+
2
5c Musée des horreurs Sport 30m
3
6c ★★ Camping Sport 25m
4
6a ★ Accident diplomatique Sport 25m
5
6a+ ★ Poireaux Sport 25m

starts with Accident Diplomatique, then right

6
7a Vitabar / Vibrator Sport 40m
1 5c
2 7a
7
6b+ ★★ La dalle, le petit toit et le pilier Sport 40m, 2
1 5a
2 6b+
8
6a ★★ Les pouces du diable Sport 40m, 2
1 6a
2 6a
9
7b+ ★ Le doigt de Dieu Sport 40m
1 7b+
2 6c
10
7a+ ★★ Zygomatiques crispés Sport 40m
1 7a+
2 6b+
11
7a+ ★★ Divin Remy's a jour Sport 40m
1 7a+
2 6b
12
6c ★ Sainte éthique Sport 40m
1 6c
2 6c
13
6a ★ L'ère éthique Sport 40m
14
6b ★★ Histoire d’eau Sport 40m
15
6c+ ★ Ballade pour Amandine Sport 40m
16
6b+ Palmes et tuba Sport 40m

Not sure if this route still exists. There seems to be a few bolts (x2?) but it s hard to tell if there is equipment until the top.

17
6b ★ Casse pas ta tête Sport 40m
1 6b
2 6b

First part is rather technical with okish small underclings, then comes the crux, a bit more physical but not so hard if you start with the correct hand. Then easy finish to the first anchor and the second pitch is only a few meters to the top and it s only about how to start

18
5c Liliane Sport 40m
1 5c
2 5c
19
8a A1 Le Pilier de l'épouvante Sport 40m
1 A1
2 8a
20
5c Couloir du fou Sport 40m
1 5c
2 5a
21
7b+ Miss Terre Sport 25m

Abseil from top. The route starts in the middle of the cliff on the right hand side of the dark chimney

22
A1 Les ouvreurs Aid 40m
23
5c ★ Le piller Sport 40m
24
7b ★★ Sagesse infernale Sport 40m
1 6a
2 7b
25
6c+ Abstiens-toi de glisser, sinon ... Sport 15m

upper part of the wall

26
7c Sekikatoutaihé Sport 15m

upper part of the wall

27
7a+ Christopher wall Sport 15m
28
8a+ Il manque un trou Sport 15m

upper part of the wall

29
6c ★ Passe Montagne un jour Sport 30m
30
6c La veuve joyeuse Sport 40m
31
5c+ ★★ Les fourmis Sport 40m
1 5c
2 5c+
32
7a ★ Voyage de noces Sport 40m
1 6c
2 7a
33
6b+ Gros chêne Sport 15m

upper part of the wall

34
7a Les beaux-frères Sport 30m, 2
1 5c
2 7a

far right towards the next sector, straight up to the right side of the big roof

35
7a ★ Hypodermique Sport 40m
1 6a
2 7a
36
6a ★ CQrizT Sport 45m
37
6b+ ★ Marcel Sport 45m
1 6b+
2 6a
38
6c+ ★★★ Ça va jazzer Sport 45m
1 6c+
2 6b+
39
6c Francine Sport 45m
40
6a Le dièdre Sport 45m
1 6a
2 5c
41
6c Super Dupont Sport 45m

Variant of Le dièdre. take right at the 2nd anchor

42
7a ★ Balade pour une ballerine / Kolhorya Sport 45m, 2
1 6c
2 7a
43
6b+ Pentagonie Sport 45m, 2
1 6a
2 6b+

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Escalade Neuchâtel et Nord vaudois

Author(s): Christophe Mironneau, Carine & Christophe Devaux Girardin, Céline Stern, Pierre-Denis Perrin

Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-3-85902-476-2

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ⓘ
Boulderführer Swiss Bloc 1

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680513

All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.

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ⓘ

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6c+ ★★★ Ça va jazzer

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Mon 29 May
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