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Summary
Limestone
Shady north face with seemingly holdless, smooth walls. Lots of good routes in the UIAA 9 range and up, mostly technical wall climbing on small holds.
Description
Always shady
North
Another historic wall in the Burggrub area, where in 1985, Wolfgang Güllich † established the first route in the UIAA 10 range in the Northern Frankenjura, "Kaum Zeit zum Atmen".
Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approach
Gentle
5-10 min
Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left and follow the road to a junction. The crag is directly above you on the right, so turn right and follow the obvious paths to the foot of the wall.
GPS: 11.13664, 49.86915
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Mon 29 May
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