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Hinterhermsdorfer Gebiet

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 95

Seasonality

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Summary

Kleines Klettergebiet mit 17 freistehenden Gipfeln

Description

Östlichstes, ziemlich abgelegenes, Klettergebiet der Sächsischen Schweiz. Die Gipfel haben nur geringe Bedeutung und sind teilweise stark bewachsen. Die Interessanteste Felsgruppe besteht aus Eisenspitze und Dreibüdersteinen. Reicht von der Bedeutung her aber nicht über das Gebiet hinaus. Der Fels ist überwiegend sehr weich. Ausnahme bildet hierbei die Eisenspitze.

Access issues

Das Gebiet liegt im Nationalpark. Somit gilt die Nationalparkverordnung und die, dieser nachgeordneten, Sächsischen Kletterregeln. Mehrere ehemals bestiegene Gipfel sind gesperrt. Forellenkuppe, Wilde Nadel, Einsamer Kegel, Verborgene Scheibe, Rote Wand, Kamel Weitere Felsen sind zeitweilig gesperrt. Nähere Infos auf der Webseite der Nationalparkverwaltung.

Where to stay

Ottendorfer Hütte Saupsdorfer Hütte

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

History

History timeline chart

1909 erste Besteigung des Dreibrüderstein.

Tags

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 28 May
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