Routes in India for selected grade

Arete L of Scoop. SDS apparently goes at 6C

Stand. R side of back face. Start at LH incut rail + RH small low side pull for best value

Short undercut face into ramped arete, L of The Long Reach.

SDS. On small boulder beside main boulder

Overhanging arete on R end of scoop

SDS low left. Veer R and onto easier holds to top. Also best route for descent.

Very easy. Good for warm up.

Climbs left side arete with crimps on face

Climbs right side arete with crimps on face

Left hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Middle line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Right hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Use a pad and a spotter.

Starts left & finishes right of arete.

Left variation possible

Right of 22b, up on edges

Between Egg Boulder + the warm-up block. Sit start LH side pull, RH on peg hole

Uncomfortable low start

B1 P1. Easy boulder problem.

Start with good hand hold.

Easy arete for beginners.

Finger jamming problem

Easy but high problem traversing left up obvious crack. Dangerous.

Sit start

Traverse from left to right

Very easy, all big holds. Good problem for beginners.

Starts from horizontal crack, right hand most line.

Dangerous.

SDS on L side of boulder with bush

Featured arete on backside of boulder

LH line up the arete on boulder facing the back of the main “Classic Arete” boulder.

RH line on boulder opposite backside of main boulder

2 glue in bolts anchor with one bucket.

Route goes along the line of the bolts, not too much right left else the grade differs.

Exciting and scary Opposite wall to the roquest wall, this line traverses left and up the arete. Exposure

Balance route, on the grey rock. On the right of the other 6a+, opposite side of the Fridge route. The first bolt is glue in bolt. Anchor: 2 glue in bolts with one bucket

Look forward to the fingery sequence between the bolts #3 and #4, followed by an enjoyable climb to the top.

First bolt is glue in type. Hanger added on the 5th bolt on 25th July 2021 which was missing earlier. Anchor: 2 glue in bolts with one bucket. There are 2 variations of the route, one is through the chimney which is 5a and other variation is the face climb (6a+) starting with a boulder problem and using the same bolts.

Nice route. The hanger on the second bolt is missing. Added a maillon on 13th March 2021 for one of the anchor bolts. Now both anchor bolts have maillons for rappelling /abseiling .

The hangers on first 3 bolts is missing. Added a maillon on 13th March 2021 for one of the anchor bolts. Now both anchor bolts have maillons for rappelling /abseiling .

Top anchor has one Petzl chemical anchor and one hanger with mylon.

little dynamic movement start with side climbing towards the top, mail-on bail.

Overhanging right to left traverse.

Traverse from right to left with good holds.

This route was bolted in April 2018 and it's the route right of La vie est Belle(life is beautiful) and on the same wall. Added the missing hangers and maillons on the anchor along with the hanger on the first bolt on Jan 1st 2022.

Has 2 anchor bolts

Anchor has one chemical bolt

Anchor has two hanger bolts, each with one mylon.

Crack climb which is bolted. Starts with hand jams and then opens up with off width at the upper crux. If done on gear needs wide gear.

A nice flowy climb interrupted by a few satisfying power moves in the middle.

A sustained climb with a fingery sequence between the 4th and 5th bolt. Stay left! Take a rest before tackling the small roof to the top.

An easy start with two mini cruxes after the second bolt and then at the top. Don't go right into the chimney.

A heaven for lovers of crimps and balance movements

A demanding slabby start with technical moves followed by crimpy sometimes juggy vertical face to the top.

Mixed trad with anchor bolts

no anchor bolts. Mixed trad route

No anchor bolts. Mixed trad route

Great looking line up the scoop wall above puss max. 5 bolts, no anchors.

Cool featured rock, great climbing.

The part of the chimney on the west face. Relatively easy grade, and yet an exhaustive movement, if not used to the squeeze-chimney climbing techniques.

The squeeze-chimney crux is after 15-odd feet, the squeeze through the narrowest section. A dozen feet of this, and then the face to the right, and then back to the chimney to top out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan, & FA, Sohan, Nov 4th, 2022.

Around the corner, facing Bangalore. Below the trees in the image below. • The take-off is the crux, there after the line eases up. • Use the two bolts and the tree to the right to protect to reach the tree to the left. • FA by Prerna Dangi. Route by Sohan & Amrit. Dec 18th, 2022.

Immediately left of Jumme Ki Raat. Face climbing.

Anchor: The trees above. Long anchoring ropes needed to get the master point overtheedge. 30-or40-footpiecesofcordage

To access top of this route, either climb the routes to the right, or hike around from the left.

Anchor: The tree is a little more than a juvenile at this time. Possible also to use the crack to the left around the boulder as one more leg of the anchor.

Crack

This impressive high boulder with a crack that starts in the middle of the boulder and then radiates out in multiple directions, with a ficus tree growing out of the crack to the right.

To access this boulder, the quickest way is by the way of driving up to the temple, from the east, and hiking over the plateau and down through the Tank Plateau. 15-minute hike from the temple parking.

Alternatively, for some warm-up, access through the Middle Earth plateau after scrambling up the slabs, through the valley between the Flyby boulder and the Jumme Ki Raat chimney, turn left, and up the slope from directly past the Flyby boulder. This high boulder is located about 50 meters east of the afore mentioned boulder, up the slope. From Stalin’s farm, 20- or 25-minute access.

The take-off is the crux. Thereafter, the grade eases up. •Betavi •Other lines: Aside from the main line that goes directly up, there are four other possibilities. To the right, after the tree, one traverse along the lower crack, or climb past it and along the diagonal crack. Third line; to the left, after the tree, at the horizontal crack, traverse left. The fourth line is more interesting potential. Left of the crack, from below the ledge, through a traversing crack, over the slab, and back into the seam to connect to the horizontal crack. Piton to protect the seam, possibly.

Facing: West

Rack: Fingers to hands.

Anchors: Crack that takes fist sized pieces.

Natural Anchor: If you can access the top through the (currently overgrown) gulley from the south, tree and some boulders.

Exit: After topping out, walk across to the tree and rappel off it. The gully to the right after the top out, is over-grown.

FKA: Shyam Krishnan, Suma Rao. 1990s. The current name provided by Shyam in Oct 2021.

Line rediscovered and documented on June 16th, 2021 by Sohan, Shyam Krishnakumar and Kiran Kallur. More than a rediscovery, correctly the route was stumbled upon, climbed, and then reconciled subsequently as having been climbed in the 1990s based on the old images. The sense of history!

Since the rediscovery, the loose block of rock inside the crack was dislodged.

Crack

Similar start as that of the Shyam’s Vajra Line, and then traversing right, under the tree, through a series of diagonal downward facing cracks, radiating right.

Two optional finishes here. Either left through the exposed slab, or right to the ledge.

To the right onto the ledge, or straight up along the slab, or left no great options for top anchor. The ledge to the right has a small gash that can accommodate a tricam and a small finger-sized cam. Alternatively, exposed moves on the slab to the left from the last piece of pro in a shallow crack formed by a feature overlapping the face, which gets you to the top-out crack of the Shyam’s line.

Rack: Same as needed for the Vajra Line

Route courtesy and FKA: Sohan and Nikhil Fernandes, Sep 22, 2021

Crack and Face

20 meters to the north-west of Jumme Ki Raat section of routes

The name apparently refers to the Paragliding tradition at Yedumadu (source, V.Murthy).

Crux is the take-off through the roof crack over the cave, rest of the crack is exciting too, and then the unprotected slab to the top out. Betavii

Exit: Scramble left (east) over the bridge of boulders

Facing: North

Rack: Full rack from finger to fist sized pieces

Anchor: Under the two boulders on the top. Fist and hand sized pieces under the right boulder, and finger sized pieces under the left.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: Sohan, supported by Vikram Murthy & Kiran Kallur, July 20th, 2021.

Located 20 meters to the north-east of Flyby boulder

Hand-stacks and fist-stack jams!

Betaviii

Exit: Plan to take a 10-15 feet cordage to leave behind as TAT, if the old TAT is degraded. No walk off; abseil or downclimb. A 10 mm rope with a rappel ring was left behind in April 2021, for the exit.

Facing: South

Rack: Off-width Gear, BD cams, #4 through #6. A small nut can go in the crack to the left after about 10 feet.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders at the top. Large hexes can be used to protect through the gaps at the base of the boulders.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Amrit, April 2021

Offwidth.

Crux within the lower 18 feet and then a scramble through the gulley. Top out through the face to the left or top out on the ledge to the right.

Betax

Exit: Walk off from the right (west)

Best time: Till noon or post 4 pm.

Rack: Off-width gear including #4 and #5 BD cams.

Anchor: Tree on the ledge to bring up the partner, or the crack to the left above the face to top rope. The crack takes small pieces, finger to finger and half sizes.

Natural anchor: Difficult, but not impossible.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Kiran Kallur. June 26th, 2021.

The far left-side bolted line, that eventually connects to the crack after the ledge, but deviates and follows the line to the left of it is a delightful line.

Start in the stem-chimney to the left or the north, and go around the corner to the face, and to the ledge, and eventually the bolts to the top. Grade kicks up a notch after the ledge. The crux is leaving the comfort of the ledge and committing to the seemingly run-out bolts.

Route credit: Sohan & Amrit A. FA: Sohan (LR Soloed). September 25th, 2022.

A dramatic route that requires some creative rope work. Or use double ropes.

The second high boulder north of Chagara. About 12-13 meters at its highest point.

This key section of this line is a traverse on the north face of the boulder, and then the unprotected traverse to the right or climb diagonally along the bolts to the top.

Rack: Finger-sized pieces.

FA: Sohan, with support from Amith BV., Charan H., & Amrit A. August 17th, 2022.

Two versions. One using the chimney, and the other avoids the chimney. If using the chimney, the top-out is the crux (5.10a). If using only the face, the crux is between the first and the second bolt, about 5.10c/d moves.

If not topping-out, the grade is 5.8.

Delightful line; requires all the respect it deserves, else will spit you out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan. Sep 25th, 2022. FA, Sohan. Sep 28th, 2022.

The west facing side of the Black Lightening boulder. Mildly overhanging with solid holds. The route starts from atop a boulder, radiating right for the first dozen feet, and then directly below the anchor.

The line is quite unusual for Yedumadu, in that it is overhanging, and has jugs for holds. Sharp as they maybe, still jugs. Second bolt to the anchor station has potential for decking the boulder below, if the belay is not efficient.

Route credit, Charan H & Sohan. November 30th, 2022.

As you face High Noon Crack, this boulder is located down the slope towards the west of it for about 40-50 odd meters, facing south, the same direction as the High Noon crack. The lower section of the crack is hidden behind boulders in a cave, but the upper diagonal hand crack radiating right is visible from the base.

Another boulder to the immediate right of it, forms the Wolf Snake Chimney

Hand jams all the way to the top.

At the point where (10 odd feet from the ground) the crack turns diagonally to the right, the hand jams are narrow (for average sized hands; .5/.75 BD cam size) and then progressively increase in size to #2 size, until the crack turns vertical again.

For the first 15-20 feet, the crack is crowded by the boulders behind and below. One could stand on one of the boulders at the base and access the crack for nearly 2/3rds the length of it!

So, somewhat contrived set of rules to make this route challenging and interesting is to avoid the boulder behind to the right, for the take off. If you lean on the upper boulder to rest or for movement, that again makes the crack easier (about 5.10a), but when the chimney ends, the crux grade still holds for rest of the route. So, make a choice for self on how you want to climb the line.

The base is a cave, so in the shade through the day for the belayer.

Rack: fist sized and below cams. Doubles of .5, .75, and 1 might help.

Anchor: Finger sized horizontal crack immediately above the route, or hand and fist sized crack slightly to the right. *Position the master point on the face to the left of the crack to avoid rope pinch and rope drag.

Natural Anchor: No

FKA: Aravind Selvam

High Noon (Old Name - Bat Crack)*

Finger and hand crack -An old classic, and test piece for intermediate trad climbers. Series of cruces make up this exciting line. The take-off as a layback to the jug (15-feet) before the crack turns diagonally right. Then the next move to the jug along the diagonal crack, and then at the point where the finger crack widens.

Though popularly known as High Noon since 2009 (Alok Tater name), the older name (via Suma Rao) is Bat Crack.

Rack: Finger to Hand sized pieces to protect, and fist sized pieces and below for the top anchor. Possible to protect the entire route with nuts alone (Offsets would be just great).

Anchor: Cracks that take fist sized to hand sized pieces. The best positioning for the masterpoint is between the crack and the horn to the climber left. So use the cracks to the climber right, and the horn to the climber left to position the master point as needed.

Natural Anchor: No (unless, you go way back, and sling a tree (20-30 meters?)

FKA: Cristobal Diaz & Dinesh K. (1990s)

Finger and hand crack

An old classic. This high boulder is located immediately behind the High Noon set of routes.

Slab start, then the crux roof, tricky placement to protect below the roof, over the roof and into the crack, and then easy hand and fist crack angling to the right. Last ten feet is mildly run out, if not using off width gear.

Facing: South

Rack: Fist sized pieces and below. (Off-width pieces optional for the upper section)

Anchor: Cracks on either side in the wide chimney, using hand sized pieces and below.

Natural Anchor: Possible with the trees above to provide an anchor at the top (with long static rope or webbing), but one directional needed in the crack below.

On the You Or I Boulder, left face start under the tree growing out of the crack, use the arete and grab the tree.

The first piece of pro by slinging on the tree, after 15 feet. Then continue onto the crack directly above it, or traverse to the right finger crack.

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

The boulder is about 50-60 feet to the left of Red Sea boulder as you face east.

Anchor for top rope using small to intermediate pieces of gear

Grit style climbing between the left Arete & the crack, directly under the tree, Grit stone style sketchy climbing in Bangalore!

One placement in the horizontal crack to the left, use the arete, and then get on the face to sling a horn, and then over the ledge to anchor the tree.

A fall before slinging the horn will be certain ground fall. Belayer needs to be attentive.

Rack: A hand sized cam, a sling, and some large nuts.

Anchor: Tree and cracks.

Natural anchor: Tree

FFA: Aravind Selvam, Aug 2017

Top Rope

Start along the arete, and through the face to the tree

Anchor: Tree and cracks

Face climbing to the right of the Red Sea crack Protection - Slung horn and fist sized pieces

Anchor; Chossy horizontal crack that takes fist sized pieces and below.

The boulder is immediately left (west) of the Red Sea Boulder. The three- placement crack problem. Challenging to protect this crack with crashpads. Also, watch your placements. At least, one known case of gear ripping out on a fall.

Facing: South

Rack: Fist sized cams and below.

Anchor: Possible to build an anchor about 10-12 feet behind, with small pieces

Natural Anchor: None

FFA: Onsighted by Aravind Selvam in early 2017

Off-Width

Further south of Red Sea, on the same terrace, after 50 meters, a bit hidden from direct view, facing south.

The crux is just after the take off. A fist jam protects the transition to the off- width sized crack.

Thereafter, well protected easy climbing.

Facing: South

Rack: #4 cam and below. Doubles of #4 cam would help.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders

Natural Anchor: Two boulders

Route starts left of the tree with an undercut at the base.

Take-off crux, and then plenty of route reading along the way.

Two variations. Going right to the juggy pocket is about 5.10aish (Uli or the chisel). Going straight up over the crimps and over the steeper slab is a grade or two stiffer (Sutti or the hammer).

One more minor crux half-way up. The rock quality here reminds of Varlakonda.

FA: Akhil Menon, August 7th, 2022. Route by Shyam Krishnakumar, Vinay Kumar, & Sohan

Seam, finger- & hand-sized crack.

Hike north of Indudala Chimney for about 50 meters to locate this boulder, with at least two known free climbing lines, and potential for a few more. Also, one could find shade during the afternoon, just below the route.

Creative placements with especially small gear in the first half before the piton, and then it still doesn’t let up. Heady line for lead.

Originally lead on ball-nuts and the slings around the chicken heads (one of which broke off subsequently), the line now has a piton after about 15-18 feet (at the same level as where the first of the original chicken head used to be).

Facing: West

Rack: Small to intermediate sized gear. #2 & #3 sized ballnuts or equivalent sized nuts and litte more head and control to make the passive placements stick.

Anchor: A strong single point anchor could be created with double cordage, or a couple of nuts or cams could be added.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: TT Niranjan and Shyam Krishnakumar, 2019.

Hand to Off-Hands crack.

The hand crack gradually widens to an Off-Hand size (wider than fist but narrower than the Off-width size).

Facing: North/West

Other lines: Couple of top ropeable lines to the right, and outside of the crack, one using the crack as the arete, and the other, going far right, and along the corner arete. To the east, where one could exit from the tree, a soloable line through the center (the base doesn’t seem to accommodate crashpads), or an exposed scramble from the left of the tree.

Rack: To protect the line, #3 & #4. Or Hexes. Perfect crack for the hexes. The Off-hands size of the crack at the crux is too big for a #3 and too small for the #4. Metolius #9 fits better. Or use a #3 and bump it up before running out the crux.

Anchor: Hand sized cams to #3 cam (doubles of #3 or Hexes).

Natural Anchor: Difficult, but possible.

Exit: Rappel off of a tree to the east. (The exit from the east is boulderable line, but mildly exposed, can also be scrambled from the left of the tree)

FKA: Sohan & Amrit, nd July 2 , 2021