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Summary
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Sarner Scharte is a large porphyr wall, approximately 400 metres in height, found in Sarntal/Val Sarentino, the valley north of Bolzano/Bozen.
Description
Slab
Vertical
Crack
Dihedral
Face
Slab
Afternoon sun
Brittle when wet
Noon sun
Wet in rain
North West
South West
West
The climbing is divided into 3 distinct areas:
- West face (the first climbed area, longest classic routes)
- South west face (the 2nd area to be developed, characterised by very low angle friction slabs)
- North west buttress (the smaller towers to north, more recently developed in a "trad" style, more modern style crack climbing)
Access issues
Designated
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down.
Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale.
Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark.
Approach
Steep hike
1-2 hour
1 - 1.5 hour approach!
From Riedlhof, follow the trail 3 to Sarner Scharte/Forcella Sarentina.
Stay on this trail for ~2kms, until you reach a point where trail 3 veers right, and to your left there's a field with a fence. Turn left, crossing the field until your enter into the forest (following trail 3B).
After ~600m, you reach a cross and an intersection. Turn right (towards the biiiig cliff), following trail 3A.
Follow this trail until you reach a climbing guide/map. From here you can access individual routes.
Ethic
New route potential
Well established
"Alpine climbing" ethic
Routes have been bolted only where natural protection is not available.
Almost all climbs require some natural gear, with the rock providing many nice cracks, corners, nooks and crannies to jam your flashy bits into.
Many of these routes (especially the easier grades) use natural/trad anchors! Make sure you know how to build safe trad anchors before questing up the Scharte.
History
Climbing has been happening on Sarner Scharte since the late 1970's, with the likes of Heini Holzer, Heinz Steinkötter and Hans Pescoller.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Luca di Giorgi
Date: 2022
Mehr als 80 lohnende Mehrseillängentourenim Porphyr im Bozner Talkessel zwischen der Sarner Scharte und den Pfattner Wänden.
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Author(s): Guido Colombetti
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9788855470599
Dies ist der erste Auswahl-Kletterführer der das Gebiet der Dolomiten komplett abdeckt. 105 Klettergebiete wurden ausgewählt und aufgenommen - Vom Grödental über Gadertal bis hin zu den Friauler Dolomiten, Agordino und Primiero di Cadore; eine Auswahl der schönsten und lohnendsten Klettergärten.
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Author(s): Gruppo Scoiattoli
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9791280483096
A comprehensive guidebook covering the sport climbing found around Cortina in the heart of the Dolomites, describing over 1,000 mainly single pitch sport routes at 28 crags, including Cinque Torri, Crepe de Oucera and Landro.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Wed 7 Jun
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