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Monte Cavallo

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 1
1
FR
5c

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Great number of classic routes of 200-400 meters

Description

All routes are on the east face, making it an ideal climb for summer afternoons, or early spring mornings

Access issues

no water at the top on summer months

Approach

approach is a 4 hours hike from any direction

Where to stay

Bivacco Aronte (hard wood floor)

Ethic

Please mind any unnecessary strain on the old rusty bolts

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Bolted by Gianfranco Coltelli, Don Giovanni Martinelli and Luciano Sodini back in 1998. The start is located in the middle of the N.E. of Mount Cavallo, second to the left of the crack, at the right of the Cambron canal. A sling is present at the base. The rock is almost all good apart for the last pitch.

1L: (50m): It is centrally attached to a plate, where on the left there are large roofs, (this is the only pitch where the protections are a bit distant) 2L: (30m): You go up again for plaques and overcome a small roof. 3L: (9m) Scramble over grassy ledge until the stop (this can be merged with 2L). 4L: (30m) Up to 5+ plaque 5L: (15m) Vertical wall, hardest pitch, 6a 6L: (45m) Go up x plates with steps 7L: (30m) up and traverse to the left The route originally ended here but in 2004 it always has Gianfranco's work  equipped a last pitch that leads the way to the summit 8L: (30m) exit 3m from the ridge.

From the ridge to the left you can walk back to shelter Aronte going south (1hour, difficult navigation)

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Raffaele Giannetti

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788855470407

A selective guidebook covering 221 long multi-pitch routes in Tuscany between the Apuan Alps and the Argentario, detailing classic multi-pitch routes where there is a mixture of bolts and some trad gear to modern fully bolted multi-pitch routes.

Author(s): Raffaele Giannetti

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788885475939

A definitive rock climbing and sport climbing guidebook for the Tuscany region from the Apuan Alps to Argentario, describing 91 major crags and detailing 1,000’s of bolted routes, across a wide range of grades.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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