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Nord Mostly Sport climbing 45 routes in sector

45
FR
4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c8a8b8c9a9b

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Valle del Sarca

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

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Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
1
Diamante del Ba.Ro. sector
 All Sport climbing
10
0
28m

Routes

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Grade Route
2
{UIAA} 6 ★★★ Via delle Cariti Sport 220m, 7
1 5- 35m
2 6- 25m
3 6 40m
4 6- 35m
5 5+/6- 30m
6 6- 15m
7 5+/6- 40m

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Sandra Schieder & Andrea Farneti, Jan 2019

3
{UIAA} 6 ★★★ Via Aphrodite Sport 180m, 8, 27
1 6
2 6
3 5
4 3
5 5+
6 6
7 6
8 6-

Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Florian Kluckner, 2006

4
6+ ★★ Via Crono Sport 200m, 7
1 6+ 35m
2 5+ 25m
3 6 25m
4 6 25m
5 6 30m
6 6+ 30m
7 5+ 30m

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, Dec 2014

5
7 Via Bon Ton Sport 220m, 6
1 3 15m
2 7 40m
3 6 45m
4 6+ 25m
5 6+ 45m
6 6+ 45m

Set: Ivo Rabanser, Stefano Michelazzi & Marco Furlani, 2010

6
6c A0 Via Simpatiche Canaglie Sport 230m, 6
1 5c 25m
2 6c 40m
3 5c 45m
4 6b 20m
5 6c 50m
6 5b 45m

3rd pitch crosses Via Bon Ton.

Set: Diego Mabboni & Federico Cazzanelli, 2006

7
6b+ ★★ Via Penelope Sport 200m, 6
1 6a+
2 6a+
3 5c
4 6b+
5 5c
6 6b - c

Set: G. Mantovani, 2004

8
6b+ Via Persephone Sport 7
1 6a
2 6b
3 6b
4 5b
5 6b+
6 6a+
7 5c

2 medium sized friends recommended.

Set: Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, 2007

9
{UIAA} 6 ★★ Via Helena Sport 230m, 8
1 5+
2 5+
3 5+
4 6
5 6
6 5
7 4+
8 6

FFA: H. Grill, F. Heiß, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner, S. Königseder & U. Grothen, 2006

10
6 ★★★ La Fuga dall'Hades Sport 200m, 7
1 6
2 5+
3 5
4 4+
5 4
6 6
7 4+

Set: Heinz Grill & Sigrid Grill, 2006

11
{UIAA} 7+ ★★ La Fessura dell'Hades Sport 240m, 8
1 6 28m
2 5+ 30m
3 5 30m
4 4 25m
5 7+ 25m
6 5+ 25m
7 5- 40m
8 4+ 40m

Shares the first 4 pitches with La Fuga dall'Hades and joins it again in the 2nd last pitch. Pitch 5 can be climbed in 6/A1.

Set: Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, 2006

12
6a ★★ Via Pilastro Themis Sport 180m, 5

Beautiful and fun climbing on solid rock. A few sections, on the third and fourth pitch, are truly spectacular. The line is logical and elegant and the protection is always good and sufficient. The route's difficulties make it one of the hardest on this face.

FA: H. Grill & S. Königseder, 2007

13
6b+ ★★★ Via Pantarei Sport 180m, 6
1 6b
2 6b+
3 5c
4 6b
5 6a
6 6a

Set: R. Galvagni & D. Filippi, 2004

14
{UIAA} 7- ★★★ Via Isis Sport 140m, 5
1 5+ 25m
2 5 15m
3 5+ 25m
4 7- 35m
5 5+ 40m

6a, with a move of 6c/A0. A pleasant and fun route, varied, up slab cracks and dihedrals. The red slab on the second pitch is beautiful. Excellent rock, the protection is on bolts and rock tunnels. Beware: there are a few unstable boulders throughout the route.

The routes was slightly modified in 2017 to lead through cleaner rock for the first pitch and last 2 pitches.

FA: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2007

15
6b ★★ Porci con le ali Sport 180m, 6
1 6b
2 6a
3 5a
4 6a
5 6a
6 5c

http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-porci-con-le-ali.html

Set: Diego Filippi & Roly Galvagni, 2004

16
{UIAA} 6- ★★ Nuova Via Sport 160m, 5

Warning Rock: Massi instabili all'ultimo tiro primo dello strapiombo! Attenzione!!!

1 6- 30m
2 4 48m
3 5+ 30m
4 5+ 15m
5 6- 35m

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2014

17
{UIAA} 5+ ★ Argo Sport 190m, 6
1 4 30m
2 4 50m
3 5+ 35m
4 5+ 15m
5 4 25m
6 5 30m

Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2010

18
{UIAA} 6- ★★ Via Aganippe Sport 150m, 5
1 5+ 20m
2 6- 35m
3 5+ 40m
4 5 28m
5 6- 30m

Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007

19
{UIAA} 6+ ★★ Dirade Trad 150m, 5
1 5
2 6+
3 4+
4 5+
5 5

Aufgrund der Kirche unterhalb der Route darf an Sonn- und Feiertagen nicht geklettert werden. No climbing allowed on Sundays and bank holidays due to the Mass held in the small church.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
20
Eremo di San Paolo sector
 All Sport climbing
9
25
20m

Routes

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Grade Route
21
6b ★★ Via Demetra Sport 5
1 5
2 6a+
3 6b
4 6b
5 5b

5c obl. Last pitch about 50m!

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Sabine Bauer, 2013

22
6+ ★★ Via Dioniso Sport 4
1 6
2 6+
3 6
4 5+

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2013

23
{UIAA} 5+ ★★ Via Nereidi Sport 130m, 4
1 4+ 30m
2 5 35m
3 5+ 30m
4 4+ 30m

Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007

24
{UIAA} 6- ★★ Via Due Piccoli Pilastri Sport 150m, 5
1 5
2 5+
3 4-
4 6-
5 6-

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Martin Mocek, 2013

25
{UIAA} 5 ★ Via Delle Ammoniti Sport 120m, 4
26
{UIAA} 5+ ★★ Vie Siuxsie Trad 94m, 4
1 4 27m
2 5+ 32m
3 5 35m

FA: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2014

27
{UIAA} 5+ ★★ Pungitopo Trad 85m, 4
1 4 20m
2 5+ 35m
3 4 30m

FA: D. Cabas & P. Masera, 2014

28
{UIAA} 6 ★ Dulcis in Fondo Trad 100m, 3
1 4+
2 6
3 5

Relatively short route with quite much vegetation. The second pitch contains a rewarding section with a small roof (UIAA 6, maybe easier). The protection is appropriate for the grades, with anchors at trees. There are slings and a few bolts in between.

FA: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Trentino Bouldering Guidebook

Author(s): Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470797

A comprehensive guidebook describing a wide range of bouldering from the Sarca valley to the heart of the Dolomites, covering 1,000’s of boulder problems at 45 crags in 8 main areas

Buy
ⓘ
Arco Plaisir

Author(s): Florian Kluckner

Date: 2020

Buy
ⓘ
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, Volume 2

Author(s): Graham Fletcher & John Smith

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781852843809

A selective guidebook describing 77 Via Ferrata routes in the Southern Italian Dolomites, including Brenta and Lake Garda.

Buy
ⓘ

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5+ ★★ Via Nereidi
7- ★★★ Via Isis
6b+ ★★★ Via Pantarei
8c+/9a ★★★ St. Anger
9b ★★★ Erebor

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Rosalie and Matilda at Eremo di San Paolo

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Eremo di San Paolo

Sun 14 May
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