Gunma/Saitama Hokubu Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Gunma/Saitama Hokubu 288 routes in Region

6 1 11 2 3 4 5 8 7 12 9 10

1 Arikasa Yama 2 Kuro Iwa 3 Shimonita Boulder 4 Jikkoku Touge 5 Nakazato 6 Tanigawa Dake 7 Futagoyama 8 Shibasaki Rock 9 Nakatsugawa Boulder 10 Mitsumine Boulder 11 Komochi Yama 12 NOGURISAWA

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 36.478264, 138.973456

description

群馬・埼玉北部

access issues

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

inherited from Japan

ethic

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

inherited from Japan

1.1. Arikasa Yama 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.612173, 138.745666

1.1.1. Fairy Rock 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.1.2. East Sekimon Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.3. Nankoku Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.4. Hell Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.5. Adventure Land 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.6. Ippuku Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.7. Senshininn no Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.8. Sundance Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.9. SUndance Right Face 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.10. Sazanami Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.11. 古谷ロック 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.12. Henkutsu Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.13. Okuheki 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.1.14. The Arch ジ　アーチ 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.15. Chippoke Iwa ちっぽく岩 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.16. Makuiwa (Inari Face) 幕岩（いなりフェイス） 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.17. Mich no Eki 道の駅 0 routes in Cliff

1.2. Kuro Iwa 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.459276, 138.898864

1.2.1. North Kita Face 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. East Higashi Face 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. South Minami Face 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.2.4. Bikkuri Kaeshi no Ooiwa 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. Shimonita Boulder 32 routes in Area

6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Hashi-no-shita 2 Jyōtō Boulder 3 Ayu Boulder 4 Drum Boulder 5 Dekai Boulder 6 Crack-jyō Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.219178, 138.798597

summary

A small rhyolite bouldering area near the town of Shimonita. Easy access from the Joshin-etsu Expressway. Problems in the Font 6s and 7s with good landings. Year-round venue with short approach.

description

The boulders are described from the upstream-most Hashinoshita ('Under the Bridge') Boulder consecutively downstream.

The nearest toilet is back on the main road at the Lawson convenience store just before the Seino distribution centre.

approach

Exit the Joshin-etsu Expressway at the Shimonita IC and follow Road 254 towards Shimonita town. Just after you pass the large Seino distribution centre on the right, turn right onto a small side road that leads downhill towards the river (side road identifiable by the traffic mirror on the opposite side of the main road). Continue across a bridge over the river and park a further 100m up the road on a small grassy lay-by on the right side (space for about 5 cars). Walk slightly back up the road towards the bridge, then drop down between the traffic barriers onto a small path that leads to the river bed and the location of the boulders (1 minute approach from parking area).

If the grassy lay-by is full, turn round and head back up the 254 towards the Shimonita IC. Further parking is available at the Shimonita Michi-no-eki parking area on the right side about 10 minutes walk from the boulders.

Anyone stopping at the 7-11 convenience store just off the expressway at the Shimonita IC should be aware that it only has a Japanese-style 'Washiki' toilet. A much more pleasant experience can be had at the newer Lawson convenience store further up the road towards the crag, just before the Seino distribution centre.

ethic

Brush all excess chalk off the boulders at the end of the day.

1.3.1. Hashi-no-shita 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.218784, 138.798653

description

The long boulder below the bridge over the river. Name means 'Below the Bridge Boulder'.

1.3.2. Jyōtō Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.219071, 138.798695

description

Name means 'First-rate Boulder'.

1.3.3. Ayu Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.219142, 138.798703

description

Ayu is a type of fish, also known as 'sweetfish'.

1.3.4. Drum Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.219296, 138.798585

1.3.5. Dekai Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.219409, 138.798530

description

Name means 'Giant Boulder'.

1.3.6. Crack-jyō Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.219443, 138.798339

description

Easily identifiable by the thin vertical crack running up the boulder.

1.4. Jikkoku Touge 0 routes in Crag

access issues

CLimbing is currently banned Dome Area, Asahi Area and Banbi Spire

登攀禁止　ドームエリア、　朝日エリア、　バンビースパイヤー

1.4.1. Kaeru Iwa かえる岩 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.2. April Rock エイプリルロック 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.3. Hirame Iwa ひらめ岩 0 routes in Cliff

1.5. Nakazato 0 routes in Crag

1.5.1. Tangu Yama Minami Face 0 routes in Cliff

1.5.2. Gunma Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.5.3. Rijichou Iwa 0 routes in Cliff

1.5.4. 木古里岩 1F 0 routes in Cliff

1.5.5. 木古里岩 ２階 0 routes in Cliff

1.6. Tanigawa Dake 3 routes in Area

1

1 Ichinokura sawa

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.847417, 138.931655

1.6.1. Ichinokura sawa 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.843694, 138.934724

description

Loose, poorly protected, classic Japanese alpine routes

access issues

Drive or train to 土合駅 doai station. You are supposed to have approval from the local police before climbing and submit a climbing plan prior to climbing.

approach

2 hour hike along closed road from doai station 土合駅 until you reach ichinokura sawa river 一ノ倉沢. Follow the river until the waterfall, bypass the waterfall and scramble up the left side then 25m abseil back down. From here many of the routes start from the top of "tail ridge", a steep slippery potentially fatal solo approach ridge.

take care!

ethic

Since The area is easy acces, it gets a lot of traffic for such a dangerous area. Bolts don't appear to be actively replaced and anchors are often dangerous.

1.7. Futagoyama 182 routes in Crag

2 1

1 East Peak / Higashi Dake 2 West Peak / Nishi Dake

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.068620, 138.866692

summary

One of the best and most famous Japanese Limestone crag. Amazing quality rock, steep long and challenging routes, short and easy approach. More than 200 routes from 5.10 to 5.15 and some multi-pitch.

description

Since 2021 Ogano climbing association is doing a huge work of rebolting, cleaning, and developing new routes and areas in Futagoyama. The new areas information is published in the Rock & Snow magazines. You can also support their work by joining the association Ogano Association Website which also gives you access to the new area topo member-only web page.

They decided to change the grading system to French grades (explained on the association website: Futagoyama New Grading System)

If you're used to Japanese grades, this new grading system is quite soft so you can expect to climb quite a few grades harder than your max.

approach

Access only possible by car. From Route 299 follow the small road up the hill. The trail goes from the parking (side of the road) which has spots for about 10 cars (there is another parking space 5 min before the trail for about 5 cars). After five minutes, at the first intersection hike down the hill and the trail splits for either the East Peak or West Peak (Center Hill Route).

1.7.1. East Peak / Higashi Dake 92 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.067823, 138.868058

summary

Main sector of Futagoyama. It has plenty of hard, long, steep, and challenging routes on high-quality limestone. South exposure, this crag has light and sun all day long on.

1.7.2. West Peak / Nishi Dake 85 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.069155, 138.864385

summary

South exposure, this crag has light and sun all day long. Smaller and with maybe slightly easier routes than the main crag, it is often less crowded.

1.7.3. Sport Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

The location of this virtual crag is unknown! Please add information if you know of it.

1.8. Shibasaki Rock 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.072219, 139.001792

summary

need to confirm location

description

Routes are numbers 1~21 starting form the top of the hill going down

1.9. Nakatsugawa Boulder 19 routes in Area

1 2 3

1 Manzoku upstream 2 Manzoku area 3 Piranha area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 35.967248, 138.843087

summary

A cluster of boulders in the Nakatsugawa River bed, upstream of the Takizawa Dam. Best problems are in the 2 kyū to 3 dan range. Classics include Piranha, Zannen, and the problems on Manzoku Boulder.

description

A small bouldering area on metamorphic rock in the Nakatsugawa River bed. Best season is Autumn through to Spring. On sunny mornings problems can be slippy if facing into the sun. However conditions rapidly improve once the shade covers the valley from midday onwards.

Classics include the Piranha wall, Zannen, and the steep problems on the Manzoku Boulder. The older problems generally get generous grades, but more recent additions by strong climbers are stiff for the grade. The landings are flat but rocky, so the more pads the better.

Travel time is about 30 minutes west of the Mitsumine bouldering area. There is a toilet at the car park, but this is closed through the winter months.

access issues

Please be careful with the holds on Piranha as they are fragile.

Clean chalk and tick marks off problems when you are finished.

Take litter home. No fires or smoking.

approach

Via car: Take National Route 140 from Chichibu past the Mitsumine bouldering area and up to the Takizawa Dam. Towards the top end of the reservoir, turn right, just before a large bridge that crosses the reservoir water, onto prefectural road 210. The turning is signposted Nakatsugawa.

Follow the road for 3 km, passing through five tunnels. At the end of the last long tunnel, the road crosses the river and a small side road on the left leads immediately to the Ōnamebashi parking lot (大滑橋駐車場). Park here then walk downstream for 5 to 10 minutes until you reach the main boulders in the river bed.

where to stay

Car camping at the Ōtaki Onsen Michi no Eki (道の駅 大滝温泉).

history

Developed in the mid-90s, there were fears that this area would be lost due to the construction of the Takizawa Dam, completed 1999-2007. Luckily the main area remains dry for most of the year, expect for periods after heavy rain and high reservoir water levels. However one problem further downstream - the Shiozawa Crack (2 dan) - was lost permanently.

1.9.1. Manzoku upstream 5 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 35.967426, 138.842984

1.9.2. Manzoku area 8 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 35.967267, 138.843044

1.9.3. Piranha area 6 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 35.966963, 138.843196

1.10. Mitsumine Boulder 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Komochi Yama 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.582467, 139.002285

1.11.1. Byoubuiwa 0 routes in Cliff

1.11.2. Shishi Iwa 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.586008, 139.001690

1.12. NOGURISAWA 0 routes in Area

summary

Ice Climbing Area

description

埼玉県赤岩沢大滝アイスクライミング

1.13. Chichibu 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Chichibu region in the prefecture of Saitama, not far from Tokyo.

1.13.1. Arakure 1 route in Crag

Summary:

summary

A restricted crag in the Chichibu area.

description

Most of the routes are hard, no easy route (just few easy route for warm up) available.

access issues

This crag is not officially open. It is a limited admission area because there is some reason. It’s like commune. Now, only a limited number of climbers, about 20, have access to the area and the members have also strengthened their ties with local residents by continuing to help with the annual festival at a local shrine. It’s one of the great case to keep on good relationships with local residents and climbers I’ve seen. If a non-member climber want to access there, they need to be accompanied by one of the members.

history

“Arakure” has been climbed for a long time, the history started 30 years (1990's) ago.