Routes in Japan for selected grade

A step up from Ama no Kawa in terms of difficulty, but another decent route. It is named after the traditional Japanese 'tea pickers' song'.

Name Translates as "Jagged"

大将

Name Translates as "Ai-chan do not cry"

P1: 5.10b/c P2: 5.10a P3: 5.9

5 kyuu

5級

Start facing outwards feet smearing on the slab matching hands on right. Turn the body to face right and get your fingers in the crack. Work your hands up the crack, aiming to go straight for the pinch on top. Right hand can then go across to a good crimp high on the boulder, and get a high right foot on a good edge to rock over for finish.

5級

Harinezumi is a hedgehog.

Short route on the apprach coming down

starts left of Hesoman and tends right up to the same anchors

つり師

Name translates as "Vampire"

Pull onto the wall at one of a number of possible entry points and climb to the top. Sit start variations also possible.

Sit start.

The rock on the right gets in the way of this problem slightly. Very hard for the grade.

Climb up just right of the crack.

Take care at the top.

Face climb.

Juggy but friable. Name means free civil rights.

No.2ルート

Arete

Alternating laybacks make for an interesting ascent

A delicate slab climb leading into an undercling used to pass the small overhang by the left side

Interesting corner climb with hard top out

This is the longest and most classic multi-pitch route up the South face of Jo-Yama. The entire 6 pitch route is protected by bolts which is typical for most climbs in this area.

Route #45 of the Minami Kabe sector of Toyama in the Japanese guidebook. 7 or 8 bolts to the anchor.