Routes in Jordan for selected grade

warm up

Missing 1st bolt. Powerful overhang finish.

New first bolt old one still there, a small over hang, chord replaced June 2020

Traverse right across "Shuu Hath".

Going up the line of the cave trending left to the crux.

a body in chimney

missing 1st bolt

slab missing 1st bolt

missing 1st, No anchor June 2020, can use the tree or traverse over to the 6a on the right if needed.

The first 4 bolts are shared with (Shaq al nemsawi)

a tricky move for the grade, missing bottom 2 bolts, Nov 2019, can clipstick the 3rd

Climbing into the bush and to the left of the bolts. Adapted from the Russian Bear route to its right.

An alternative route to "Ras Khalili" without doing the overhang, shares same anchor.

Vertical.

First climb in Amman

vertical

slab

450m (horizontally) dry canyon

• Approach from the street walk around a 100m, climb a little 6m boulder.

• 25m (4a climb) hard to protect (nuts)

• Climb few easy boulders (3-7m) pass side to a little tiny water lake

• Very very nice secure chimney (5a), 25m, hard to protect (thread, .5, .75 cams)

• Boulders and walk again in a corridor for a 100m

• Climb the Crux 5c, 30m, chimney, ok protection (.4 - 4 cams, threads, nuts), rock can be loose in some sections.

All the climbs have very good 2 glue-ins at the end (The quick links are not certified, good for static loads only)

Decent, you can walk off north and down all the way back to dead sea street, or walk south up to panorama st. But it's more enjoyable to just reverse the route.

plus top anchor consisting of 2 bolts

Rock can be loose, and the water might not be very deep sometimes, so check and take care.

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

Locatedinrajefareawadialmaite in this location ("30°12′59.55′′N35°25′00.33′′E).

P1: Scrambling, you can use some protection, loose rocks be careful of people below.

P2: Good rockquality, you need normaltradrackyouwillfinda silverpiton5meterbelowstationenditwasamistakefrommetoputitonjustuseitifyou wantandcompleteup5meterforniceledge Thirdpitch:5c30metergrad5closerockinhardsectionafteryouwillfindanicecavethatyou canmakestationbehinditandcompletewalkingfromtheretoyourcarorcamp

Topo: Howard guidebook #13.

Topo: Howard guidebook #18.

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.

1. Scramble up to a ledge with big boulders.

2. Awkward moves into a cave, pull through overhang with good holds.

3. Two grovely corners.

4. Slab then layback on sandy open holds.

Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2.

Topo: Howard guidebook #28.

#31.

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

3. Same style a bit easier

4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade)

rap descent

Done only on top rope in the past

First bolt is a bit high, shares the same anchor with the other route

On the east face about 200 m south from the arch. The climb starts at a set of leftwards leading fingers.

It is possible to climb slightly different variations all over this slab. Online and guide book topos all show slightly different ways especially around the large roof. Take care with route finding at the large roof as you could end up on soft rock or harder difficulty. The number of pitches will also be variable up to 9? There is also an extension to the true summit (not described here).

Time: Between 4-8 hours to reach the boulder field.

Gear: Cams up to big blue (camelot 3), no hexes.

Easy variant

.

• Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
• Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
• (easy variant) walk up and to the right heading under a small wall f3.
• (easy variant) up a left wall to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f4.
• traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
• exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
• slabs to the top, boulder field f4.

Direct variant

.

• Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
• Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
• (Direct variant) Head direct to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f5.
• traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
• exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
• slabs to the top, boulder field f4.

Descent:

.

Via the burdah bridge route (1-2 hours), there are cairns, trending towards the left of the bridge. Just before the bridge there is an exposed traverse (f3). Apparently there is also an abseil down onto the bridge, to avoid the traverse (un verified).

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

Just to the left of Desert Rats in the Shade.

1. Up the face to a piton at a ledge.

2. Left along the ledge and then up to the corner

Descent, rap via route.

requires 5mm chord to protect the crux on the upper slab

From Obeid's Bedouin Camp and facing the rocks behind his camp, this is located on the "Corner Crag" about a mile to the West (far side to the right of the rocks).