Start on the Southeast side of the mountain at a large orange flake.
Pitch 1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge. Short pitch with good view of following party at the belay ledge.
Pitch 2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest. Chimney can easily be soloed. A fun variation exists on the face of the tower which allows for some fun and exposed moves. Be aware of loose choss. Especially since there will most likely be local children watching from below.
Pitch 3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up. Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as 'North Face Route' Descend the same way you come up, or use the bolted anchor to abseil to a ledge with a large tree and cactus. A 70 meter rope will allow for a single abseil to the bottom, or a 60 meter rope will require re-rigging at the tree. Use good rope practices while rappelling and avoid getting your rope lodge in any slots during retrieval.
There is no known route history.
E | Assigned grade |
5.4 | ★★★Justin Gardner |
E | The Mountain Club of South Africa, KwaZulu / Natal Section (Gavin Peckham) |
Overall quality 83 from 1 ratings.
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