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Nathenje Quarry

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Description

Crag is an old quarry mine and is in the sun from 10 o'clock in the morning. No shaded areas. Sport routes that can also be toproped. Easy to get to even with public transport. Routes accessible from top of the crag by abseiling down the cliff from the trees and rocks.

Access issues

No fees needed. However, respect school hours since crag is on school property.

History

History timeline chart

Used to be community land between 2018 and 2019 when the crag was first developed, but ownership changed later in 2020 to private, but agreement was struck to still continue climbing as long as the school benefits from this activity (by introducing climbing to the students)

Routes

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Grade Route

Place protection starting from the beginning of the crack and join Flake on the right.

Can be lowered off the Flake anchor

FA: Ed Nhlane, 19 Mar 2023

Leftmost route at the crag, climbing follows the huge flake past 3 bolts to the anchor. Crux is at the beginning of the climb at bolt 1

FA: Tyler Algeo, 8 Mar 2019

Face climb with a boulder problem at the crux at bolt 2 which demands a stretchy lift move on the left or a heel hook to get to the edge (near the skewed white streak) and bump to the better hold. Also possible to go up using the tiny two finger crimp/pocket.

FA: Tyler Algeo, 12 Mar 2019

Chiyambi means "The Beginning". Descriptive since route is good for beginners and often used to get people into the sport.

Start either directly below bolt 1 or slight on the right beneath the flake and layback your way with powerful moves to the first crux at bolt 1. Climb past bolts 2 and 3 along the fissure line to get an unobvious position to clip at the crux on bolt 4 (holds are reachy). Stem wide to prop up to the anchors.

Warning: Loose rocks

FA: Tyler Algeo, 9 Apr 2019

One of the two quintessential climbs at Nathenje (besides Zoona "It is True"). Endurance is required

Maint: Ed Nhlane, 24 Jul 2022

FFA: Ed Nhlane, 14 Aug 2022

Route goes up the orange streak part in the middle section of the crag to the right of Nditha. Climb past 2 bolts with powerful moves to reach at the crux just after the under-clings. Dynamic move to go past the crux to the side-pull then gets less strenuous.

FA: Viktor Pot, 25 Jun 2023

Climb starts on top of the ledge to clip at bolt 1, then up on the right to stem up past bolts 2-4. Crux is slab section between bolts 7 and 8

FA: Viktor Pot, 11 Jun 2023

Warning Rock: Loose rock

Osafooka ("Never Giver Up!") is a true test. Climb meant to start slightly on the left beneath bolt 1, but a variation exists to also start from the ledge. The bottom climb has bad holds which progressively get worse getting to the crux at bolt 3. Then holds become sloping crimps.

FA: Scott Pagel

Maint: Ed Nhlane, Jul 2022

Follows an obvious connection of cracks at the corner of the last section to the right. The climb goes up the stack of boulders and ends at a belay on a tree on top.

Descent by walking off from the top of the hill.

Caution: Being an old quarry, some sections may not be as solid as they appear to take protection. Place protection with care. And also BEWARE of Bees in the cave up there. This is an early morning climb before the sun agitates the bees.

FA: Ed Nhlane & Aka Lichtner, 14 Apr

A boulder start leads you to a couple of left hand pinches, then mantle up to the shelf leading to the crux at the bulge at bolt 3 into a giant flake under-cling. Counterpressure moves to move past the crux past bolts 4 and 5 to anchor.

FFA: Ed Nhlane, 24 Jul 2022

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Mon 29 May
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