Bukit Takun, Sport climbing

Map

11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 1 2 3

1 Westbank 2 Elysium 3 Ana's Garden 4 Battle Field 5 Jenga 6 Lower slopes 7 Galactic cliff 8 Granite base 9 Big Hole 10 Cathedral 11 Camp Ground

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Summary

Phenominal rock outcrop, stretching 300m tall. Massive potential for new routes: sport and trad. Hands down, some of the best multi-pitch climbing in Malaysia.

Description

Bukit Takun is an enormous limestone outcrop on the outskirts on Kuala Lumpur. One of the best and most comprehensive resources on climbing routes Bukit Takun can be found here: http://www.climb.my/routes/selangor-kl/bukit-takun/

The limestone sits on a bed on granite making lower routes incredibly varied, as you are forced to transition from technical slab faces to featured limestone. The long multi-pitch routes also deserve a mention, several up to 230m in height.

The area has a long history of climbing, with many trad and sports routes put up over the last 30 years. Bolting activity is ongoing: recently there has been a slew of new routes with Patrick Andrey leading the charge, capitalising on the areas huge potential.

The surrounding area is dense jungle forest and this makes the crag feel quiet and remote. However, be prepared for tropical jungle conditions, take plenty of water and be warned the mosquitoes are ravenous.

Access issues

Allowed

The Bukit Takun outcrop access is through a private housing estate. Although residents tolerate access to the crag for climbers, please do not jeopardise this by leaving the area before sunset.

Sign-in with the guard, at the guardhouse & inform if you intend to be leaving late. If you intend to take on multi-pitch routes ensure you are fully prepared, keep an eye on the time, and stick to turn back times.

Leaving in the dark may cause undue panic to the locals, which can make crag access harder in the future.

[updated 2022] Access window for climbers is set as 8:00am ~ 6:00pm

Approach

Steep hike 20-30 min

The ascent starts from the housing estate guardhouse. Once you have signed in, proceed up the private road until in turns into a jungle trail. You will pass through a vegetable patch. For sectors Galactic Cliff, Granite Base, Big Hole and Camp Ground head right on the jungle trail, for a steep hike on soft ground.

For the sectors Lower slopes and below, take the jungle trail to the left at the big banyan tree.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3zBTn5vFCo

Ethic

Under development

Please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).