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Summary
Malta has about 700 sport routes, and 1500 trad routes. The majority are seldom climbed and don't suffer 'polishing'. There are many deep water solo and sea cliff traversing routes.
Description
The Maltese rock sequence is divided into five main layers of limestone. Each layer has a distinct composition, as well as distinct properties. The lower coralline limestone is the oldest, and lowest layer. It is hard, and climbable. Victoria Lines, Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley), Irdum Irxaw (Mistra), Ghar Lapsi, Wied Babu, Wied il-Mielaħ, Wied ix-Xlendi are lower coralline limestone. The upper coralline limestone is the youngest, and topmost layer. It is also hard, and climbable. Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave) and San Blas (Gozo) are upper coralline limestone.
Access issues
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.
Approach
Where to stay
Ethic
History
Fishermen and pirates have climbed these cliffs forever. The British forces in the 50's and 60's established a number of routes, mostly in Wied Babu, Xaqqa and Ghar Lapsi. Many new trad routes were set up in the 80s by visiting Brit climbers. Sport climbing took off in the 90s with many trad routes being retrobolted but also many new sport routes and crags being developed since then.
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Nearby Icons
| 4c | ★★ Wankers Wall | ||
| 5b | ★★ Karma e Gesso | ||
| 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo | ||
| 5c+ | ★★ Alex | ||
| 6a | ★★★ Outer Zone | ||
| 6b | ★★★ Smack the Crack | ||
| 7a | ★★★ Crazy Monkey | ||
| 7b | ★★★ The Double Slit Experiment | ||
| 7b+ | ★★★ Medusa | ||
| 8a | ★★★ Puff Sugar |
Photos Browse all photos
Christoph Rauch on ★★★ Spunky Arête 6c - IMG_9536.jpg
Aleksandra at Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) - 20211115_120751.jpg
Roby Candela on ★★★ The Future is Now 8a+ - 2019-11-10 14.28.51.jpg
Charlie Jay C. Ylaya on ★★★ Neus 7a - at Mistra, Malta
Mon 15 May
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