Routes in Melanesia for selected grade

Pitch 1 - 7a, Pitch 1+2 - 7b+

Precise and Technical!

The first ascentionist had to lose 10kg to get the FA.

Follow the line of bolts up past the black streak to DRB lower offs.

Little mini roof to ultra technical wall climbing. Embrace the pinky gasto.

Such a fun and wandering line on amazing rock. Make your way through the first mini roof then climb to the right below the cave. Then up some rock that is reminiscent of the Gramps to the finally! Might be 24-25

A truely exceptional climb. The real climbing starts beneath the headwall.

An excellent intricate and sustained line! The original line started from the small ledge 7m above the main hang out ledge, hence the belay bolts. The direct start was added later and definitely completes the entire line, it goes at 27. Aid through the crux with relative ease to climb the main route from the ledge.

Great tricky thin face climbing on very small holds. Climb BI for 5 bolts and step R up the grey wall past 8 RBs.

Technical. 2m L of Martins Project 2 at the R side of the big circle/shield feature climb the wall through the break to the thin wall at the top. 7FHs, DRBB

2m L of MP at the L side of the big circle/shield feature Test yourself on this thin beast.

A fantastic power endurance piece that keeps you on your toes from the moment you leave the ground till a metre before the anchor. Good rock and moves. Start on the ledge 5m L of the OP at a low belay bolt

Stolen from Patto by some marauding cross border folks in mistake for an ascent of The Nosebleed section. To be honest it had gone untouched for 5 years. 2m R of Tahitian Thrust, up the initial wall and slightly diagonal R to the break below the grey streak. Up this past the cool tufa like feature to the 2nd break, slightly up L and up the feature grey/black wall. 8RBs, DRBB

Fantastic, pumpy face climbing. Named after the 2nd ascensionist bled all over the climb. Start as for RBM follow this to the 1st bolt above the diagonal (ACP) Up ACP/grey streak for 3 bolts to the top break before stepping R up the pumpy headwall all the way to the top. 13RBs, DRBB.

Kent said “26”, but he thinks everything is 26 lol. 1m R of RBM below the undercling flake. Up to this then pull over L onto the ramp, up the super thin wall and slightly L to join TNBS to the top. 12 bolts, DRBB.

Superb, sustained. No super hard cruxes but it doesn’t relent either. Start down in the top end of the canyon at the R end of The Balcony. Up into the flake crack, over the small overhang bulge and step L onto the face and pockets at the 4th bolt (do not higher this is the 19). Up the grey face to the base of the diagonal overlap/seam. Follow this L to the crux and then another as you step L at the 10th bolt to the jugs out L on the face. Finish up the steep jugs to the anchors. 11FHs, DRBB.

closed project