Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.
5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.
5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.
5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.
5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.
Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.
First ascent: Magic Ed, Dane Bass & Ralph Vega |
5.8,5.9,5.9,5.10a | Assigned grade |
5.8,5.9,5.9,5.10a | Chayil Timmerman |
5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a | David Gibbs |
5.10a [5.9 - 5.10a] - | grAId |
5.10b | ★★★CACHORRO |
Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.
Overall quality 79 from 44 ratings.
Based on 5 ratings.
Based on 5 ratings.
Author(s): Frank P. Madden
Date: 2022
ISBN: 979-8218024314
The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.
Miguel on ★★★ Will the Wolf Survive? 5.10a - 4th pitch
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