Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

The obvious easy line up the left side of the prow (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out)

The obvious easy line up the right side of the prow in the middle of the outcrop (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out)

1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

Sit start matched on the slopey horn. Go for the arete.

Sit start matched on the seam and go for the top.

Start matched on the arete and finish on the blocky jug.

Climb the smooth lip from left to right.

Start with a high right foot and left hand palm down. Keep just to the right of where the grassy ledge is on the boulder. Head in a straight line up the rock. The grass ledge is out for this climb

Tricky clip of 2nd bolt, then fingery crux up to the jug next to the 3rd bolt.

Start standing on the far left of the boulder in the sword grass. Starting hold is obvious right hand lump.

Traverse across the top lip end to end.

Further down the gully on the same side as Touch and Go is an obvious short clean vertical fist crack. Climb this and the broken ground above to tree belay. Pretty pumpy but good pro placements.

Sit start on the right with a big pinch and undercling , stay in the small roof as long a possible and then transfer onto the face to finish.

Match start on the thin ridge. Stand up and use a far right side pull or precision footwork to reach the top.

Match low on the hold around the arete on the right. Move along the arete, transition to the left side of the boulder and mantle to the left of the peak.

Start on good hold below orange streak. Move up to jug and throw left to arete. Once standing on boulder, it is easier to downclimb than fight past the tree. Throw is span dependent but there is a static method.

Start by matching your hands on the rail while smearing on the wall. Match on the second rail in the middle, then go for the big jug on the left and finish the climb.

Sit start. Match on the arete low to the left. Move up to the right then stretch around the overhang to transition to the right side and mantle there.

Note:

Easier for those with longer arms but a good challenge for the less lanky.

Start from the far-right and try to traverse to the far left and climb to the top.

Match on the corner of the wall and climb the arete. There are good jugs once you reach the middle of the climb.

Climb the tall dark face to the groove. #Highball

Sit start down and right off the horn and head up and left using a variety of holds.

Start on the massive jug shelf. Head up and right to finish on the highest point of the boulder with a final committing move.

One of the best of its grade on the North Island.

Highball

Sit-start and match hands on the juggy arete, and dyno/reach to the right. use a good jug on the left to out the climb.

Stand start matched on the large ledge. Move up to the groove then top out.

Take a few mats to avoid falling into the canyon.

Start as for Sunny Sunday, at the third bolt step right and over the bulge (crux).

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

Stay on the arete make your way to the top, you can top out and down climb to the left or down climb to the right.

Compress the block all the way up on good feet, Top and down climb to the right.

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

From the pointy block, climb the left-leaning thin crack and jam the notch to reach the shattered ledge, then proceed up the slab with the crack at left. Apparently you do a "bigglesworth" somewhere but nobody has any idea what that means...

Up the groove to the big blast hole and wobbly block, then move right into the upper groove.

Climb either of the grooves to the ledge (right hand groove is easiest), bridge up and pull onto the lip above the roof, then balancy moves up the face, arete and shallow right hand groove.

Climb the groove until you can cross left and establish yourself on the face and arete. Continue up the arete and face above. Be careful clipping the second bolt, the first one is low and there is groundfall potential if clipping high.

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

Climb the right-hand arete of Orangutang without using the cracks on either side.

Up the corner above the ledge right of Orangutang to gain the higher ledge on the right (crux). Continue direct up the wide groove and bulge above. Protection is there but may be difficult to place.

A short boulder problem that made it into the old guides because it had a name. The thin crack at ground level about 5m right of the Orangutang corner. There is now a stout pine tree growing right in front of it, which may make spotting tricky and falling off problematic.

Hang start. Lower boulder is out.

Sit start

Climb on the right side of the arete next to Apricot.

Directly right of The Cross. Sit start with left hand starts on high crimp, right hand on a low side-pull crimp. Go directly up on crimps and a slopey top move.

Start left hand crack and right hand crimp. Exit straight up via the arching crack.

A tricky little number, climb the buttress keeping mainly on the left.

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

Start as for the first 3 bolts of C.J.D Arete, then head left up the small seam and shallow pockets.

Bolts for the upper face could be added for those with basophobia.

The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on "J.E.M." helps with otherwise lean protection.

Start as per 'J.E.M' then veer slightly right after the 2nd bolt. Technical climbing straight up the face leads to a tricky finish.

Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab.

Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

Four bolts and tree belay. Follow the two almost horizontal bolts traversing right until reaching the arête and finishing as for ‘The Appendix’ past the third and fourth bolt. Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell and Andrew Batten, 2004

The slightly over hanging wall with three bolts. There is only one hard move, just above the second bolt. Double bolt belay with rams horns.

Start on the left-hand side of the arête on the jug and head straight up trusting your feet, those without technique may struggle.

• Renamed due to controversy

Sit start on the left hand under cling and the right hand drag, moving up aesthetic looking arête on good holds.

Start on the left hand side pull and right hand flat edge. Move right via a big move to a side pill high and then figure your way over the lip via a mantle on good open hand holds. Be careful of the spotting here as this line has potential to end badly if done incorrectly.

Quite similar to 'Dystopian Quintessential' though move right further via a one handed dyno movement swing your feet across to large jug/ sloper placing your heel then move upwards finishing on 'Mantle or Roll'

Black circles (3), see topo. Sit start on the under cling, moving up on good holds to a delicate mantle over the bulge.

Red circles (4), see topo. A harder varient to 'Salami' finishing up 'Mantle or Roll' starting on the same hold though avoiding the jugs and using a high pinch and crimp and topping out with a nice mantle.

Sit start on the jug. Heel on and blast straight up.

Sit start in leftmost horizontal crack, traverse right keeping off the top ledge.Climb finishes when standing on top of the block on the right. A bit dirty and vegetated.

Traverse the wall keeping as low as possible the entire way. Big rocks touching the ground are out for feet.

Sit start on bottom block, bottom block is out for feet. Finish mantle with feet on start hold.

Sit start, climb to the ledge at half height, dyno for top.

Sit start with left hand on side pull (marked by blue dot) and right hand in pocket (Blue dot). Match top to finish.

Sit Start on the face, climb direct to the top. Crack and holds in the crack on the right are out.