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Point 2082

  • Grade context: AU
1
YDS

Summary

Prominent 160m high buttress visible from the car park / Canyon creek

Description

Mixed trad / sport climbing in an alpine environment. All anchors bolted with rap stations

Approach

Follow the DOC track up to above the waterfalls. Head left up through the scree fields following the Cairn to the base of the buttress. About 4-5 hours from the car

Where to stay

Good camping spots 100m from base of route (3-4 tents) with water source. Or lots of camping options in the valley

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Routes

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Grade Route

Blue moon 160m, grade 22, mixed sport / trad

Pitch 1 - 25m, grade 20, 7 bolts & trad Start at cairn, a few metres left of first bolt. Traverse up and right with stemming feet on small holds to first bolt. After 4th bolt move right into crack, good cam placement. Pull through 2 cruxy lips then easy ground to DBA

Pitch 2 - 35m, grade 17, 4 bolts & trad Diagonally up and right from anchor past 2 bolts to corner with small gear. Up onto the top of pillar, past another bolt. Move up and left from bolt, crux through lip with good cam. Pass one more bolt then scramble up through easy ground, trending right to ledge and DBA

Pitch 3 - 35m grade 22, 8 bolts & trad Bolt straight above the anchor then follow the crack. Follow 2 bolts on face above, making balancy delicate moves on small holds. Clip a long sling to the bolt on your left then head up through the groove and large detached block on the right to the ledge. Step right to the bolt on next headwall. 2 ropes essential to avoid drag. Tricky moves up through more bolts and through left side of small roof. Easy to anchor

Pitch 4 - 25m grade 20, 8 bolts & trad Gear in the crack up and left of the anchor, then traverse right to the first bolt. Crimpy face climbing up to the anchor. At the last bolt don’t be tempted by the easy ledge out right - go straight up past the bolt for full value

Pitch 5 - 25m, grade 21, 6 bolts & trad The money pitch. Up past 1st bolt, then follow crack up and right. Good cam then traverse left on ledge to bolt on arete. Take a breather and take in the exposure, then power up the arete past and mantle onto ledge. Head right and up to next ledge up large crack / block. DBA on your right on next ledge

Pitch 6 - 15m, grade 16, 1 bolt & trad Short pitch up final headwall with good gear in horizontal cracks. Top out with trad anchor. Easy walk off, follow cairns through tussocks back to camp. Optional swim in the lake on the way down. Good bivvy spot 100m from base of route with water source.

If rappelling the route, take care when pulling the ropes from the 2nd anchor, easy to get ropes stuck. Better to rap the line of anchors to the left (route under development) or walk off

FA: Joe Collinson & maria, 30 Mar

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Sun 28 May
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