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Table of contents
- 1.
Mavrovo
38 in Crag
- 1.1. CAVE 29 in Sector
- 1.2. RIBNICHKA SKALA 6 in Sector
- 1.3. FRENCH WALL 3 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mavrovo 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 41.701518, 20.647316
description
Mavrovo is a well known tourist destination located in the high mountains in the western part of Macedonia. It's one of the best destinations in the country, popular for outdoor tourism and known for it’s huge potential and mystical beauty. It is a hot spot for skiing and ice climbing during the winter, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, kayaking and climbing during the summer. It is open all year round-- a cradle for all kinds of outdoor sports and activities. Macedonian sport climbers admire the beautiful and vivid rocks in the gorgeous canyon on Radika river.
access issues
Drive from Mavrovo- Mavrovi Anovi towards Debar, trough the canyon of Radika river. Follow the river, which is on your right side all the time, until the passing of the small bridge, which will switch the river side from your right to your left side. Right after the bridge, called Krivi Most, approx. 12 km from Mavrovi Anovi, on your left you will find a parking lot.
approach
Park deeply, close to the river as much as possible, so you can see your vehicle from the cave. Right across the parking, look up, and you will spot the great cave. The approach to the cave starts, across the road, next by the concrete drain, on your left side. Follow the steep trail, until you get to the foot of the cave, where a short via ferrata
where to stay
history
Back in 2012, Kire Serafimovski and Vladimir Trpovski discovered the great breathtaking cave, which is pure climbing heaven. Years after, the first sport climbing routes were established. In that time, climbers obtained the permits for climbing from the authorities of the National Park “Mavrovo”, collected funds for bolts and equipment, planning and etc. but the steel-made bolts prevailed and a new sport climbing crag was born. Everything began when Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Aleksandar Brborovic climbed the first routes in late May 2013. Now we can proudly say that Mavrovo offers great opportunities and potential for sport climbing. We are very grateful for the support and cooperation from the National Park “Mavrovo” as well to Zdravko Petrovski, the President of the Sport Climbing Club EXTREME –Skopje for their help in the realization of this very important project, Sport Climbing Crag-Mavrovo.
1.1. CAVE 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 41.697536, 20.645721
approach
Drive from Mavrovo- Mavrovi Anovi towards Debar, trough the canyon of Radika river. Follow the river, which is on your right side all the time, until the passing of the small bridge, which will switch the river side from your right to your left side. Right after the bridge, called Krivi Most, approx. 12 km from Mavrovi Anovi, on your left you will find a parking lot.
Park deeply, close to the river as much as possible, so you can see your vehicle from the cave. Right across the parking, look up, and you will spot the great cave. The approach to the cave starts, across the road, next by the concrete drain, on your left side. Follow the steep trail, until you get to the foot of the cave, where a short via ferrata ladder starts, and leads straight into the cave. BE ADVISED: While climbing the small “via ferrata”, moisture and loose rock are possible scenarios, so please take necessary precautions.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Maine Liebe
FA: D.Popov & Vladimir Trpovski Set: D.Popov & Vladimir Trpovski, 2018 | 6b | 20m, 10 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Balkan trip
FA: Klemen Bečan, Jul 2014 Set: Klemen Bečan, Jul 2014 | 8b+ | 80m | |||
| 3 |
Macedonian Trip
Set: Klemen Bečan, 2013 FA: Adam Ondra, 16 Oct 2018 | 9a | 50m | |||
| 4 |
Czech Trip
Extension of Macedonian Trip. Set: Adam Ondra, 13 Oct 2018 FA: Adam Ondra, 16 Oct 2018 | 9a+ | ||||
| 5 |
★★★ Separatizam
FA: Jozi Pavlic, 2013 Set: Jozi Pavlic, 2013 | 7b | ||||
| 6 |
Edinstvo
Set: Bojan Leskovcek, 2013 | 25m | ||||
| 7 |
Bratsvo
Set: Matjaz Zorko & Bojan Leskovcek, 2013 FA: Matjaz Zorko, Jul 2016 | 8b+ | 80m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
★★★ Buldog
FA: Matjaz Zorko, 2013 Set: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, 2013 | 8a | 30m | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Scila
FA: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, 2013 FA: Matjaz Zorko, Jul 2014 | 7c/c+ | 30m | |||
| 10 |
Dedo Dule
Set: Alexander Brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 | |||||
| 11 |
Runica
Project Set: Vladimir Trpovski, Aug 2019 | 15m | ||||
| 12 |
Rudolf
Set: Alexandar Brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 | 25m | ||||
| 13 |
★★ Roza
FA: D.Popov & Vladimir Trpovski, Jul 2014 Set: D.Popov & Vladimir Trpovski, Jul 2014 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
| 14 |
★★ Ruzica
Set: D.Popov & Vladimir Trpovski, 2013 FA: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, 2013 | 6b | 15m | |||
| 15 |
Dolgovecnost
Set: D.Popov & Alexandar Brborovic, 2013 | 8b | ||||
| 16 |
Moonwalk
Set: Alexandar Brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 FA: Matjaz Zorko, Aug 2016 | 8a+ | 25m | |||
| 17 |
Zvezdena prasina / Ѕвездена прашина
Set: alexandar brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 | 8a+ | 1m | |||
| 18 |
★★★ Srekna 40ka / Среќна 40ка
Set: Alexandar Brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 FA: Matjaz Zorko, Jul 2014 | 7b+ | 25m | |||
| 19 |
★★ Ludacka Lulaska / Лудачка лулашка
Set: D.Popov & Alexandar Brborovic, 2013 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
| 20 |
★★ Viktor show / Виктор show
FA: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, 2013 Set: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, 2013 | 5a | 20m | |||
| 21 | ★★ Prikazna za sonot / Приказна за сонот | 7a | 25m | |||
| 22 | ★★ Kurs za bricenje | 6a | 15m | |||
| 23 | ★ Srpska rabota | 6a | 15m | |||
| 24 |
★ Sakam
Set: Alexandar Brborovic & D.Popov, 2013 | 6c | 15m | |||
| 25 | ★★ Mister sauh / Мистер Саух | 5c | 15m | |||
| 26 | ★★ Dvotaktol sarma | 6b | 15m | |||
| 27 | ★★ Brushalter | 6b | 15m | |||
| 28 | Cvrsto hrabro | 6a | 15m | |||
| 29 |
El Viking
FA: Vladimir Trpovski, Oct 2018 Set: Vladimir Trpovski, Oct 2018 | 5 | 30m | |||
1.2. RIBNICHKA SKALA 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 41.708060, 20.650047
approach
Before the parking for climbing sector Mavrovo Cave the road is separating to the right toward village Ribnik. Than you should turn to right and when you pass the small bridge over river Radika, on the left side of the rock, the routes are on the 10 m block.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Реџеп козата
Set: D.Popov, Aug 2018 | 5a | 10m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Кумбу (in the crack)
FA: D.Popov, Aug 2018 | 4 | 10m | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Шкорпија
Set: D.Popov, Aug 2018 | 6a+ | 10m | |||
| 4 |
Лубеница
Set: D.Popov, Aug 2018 | 6b | 10m | |||
| 5 |
Диња
Set: D.Popov, Aug 2018 | 7a | 10m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Gogo Gorast
Route opposite side of the rest of the routes. Set: D.Popov, Jul 2018 | 5c | 10m | |||
1.3. FRENCH WALL 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 41.695352, 20.645471
approach
One kilometre after the parking for sector Cave, there is a road widening on the left, which is the parking for French Wall. Cross over the road, enter the woods and follow the marked path up to the climbing rock. You have to climb a small ferrata.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Anosmia
Very beautiful and demanding multi pitch route FA: Solene Amoros, Guillaume Colin, Jonathan Crison, Romarie Geffroy, Thoma Meignan, Eloi Perotti & Gerome Pouvreau, Sep 2021 | 8b | 250m, 9 | |||||
| 2 | Jolie Julie | 6a+ | ||||||
| 3 |
Качамак (Kachamak)
FFA: Vladimir Trpovski, Jul 2020 Set: Vladimir Trpovski & D.Popov, Jul 2020 | 6c | 15m | |||||
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