Routes in Norway for selected grade

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

Ext to 'Gratulerer med dagen'

Climb the crux of Stive Dempere (8a+) and traverse into Draumkvedet (8c) at the jamming crack and climb the top of Draumkvedet. A hard boulder at the top. There is no good rest on the route and the top crux is harder than the crux on Stive Dempere. For this reason: 8b or 8b+.

Note: The name "Araber flikk-flakk" is referring to an exercise in gymnastics - a name chosen by Håkon Hansen. There is nothing racist about it.

The "2021 Kolsås Climbing club guide book" lists this route as a "F7c+". The route is graded F8a+ (or harder). The route had its first female ascent recently in 2013, 27 years after its first ascent.

https://borebloggen.blogspot.com/2019/08/erik-grandelius-repeterer-den-mytiske.html

Thin and sharp route that starts left of "Vriåtter" and later enters into the same finish. Very nice and probably a bit unusual sequences needed to climb the first half. This route is underrated in the local guide books. BEWARE that the sling in bolt#3 can turn into a awkward and dangerous position while passing it; I recommend to either tape it in place or use a maillon.

The routes starts to the right of "Vri åtter" and shares the same "resting-spot" in the middle of the wall. After the rest, the route turns out to the right again, for a little overhang followd by a vertical finsih with some really sharp holds. It might be a bit harder than "Normalveien", but also softer than "Engelspill".

Sit start

Sit start.

Videos: https://betabank.blogspot.com/search/label/Granitthard

Start on the very low jug.

Videos:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3U9XpAoWaK/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://27crags.com/videos/23586

https://vimeo.com/94163202

Sit start.

Video: https://vimeo.com/76465243

Sitstart

Eliminate. Without using the arete up on the left.

https://vimeo.com/143435791

Short, sharp and balancing

Easy climbing to a hard boulder problem, then resistance all the way up to the anchor. For this route - you should have good strenght, even better pump and dedication. There is one hard clip from a sloper.

Between Gekko and Geiranger

Steep and pumpy

steep and pumpy

start on the left arete then link into the middle boulder.

The steep one in the middle.

Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

Starts up Ilddåpen, then traverses left after the dihedral to reach a stance below the overhanging finger crack. Follow the sustained crack on good gear to easier ground. Classic.