Routes in Norway for selected grade

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

https://borebloggen.blogspot.com/2010/09/i-serien-voksne-fedre-klatrer.html

First grade 9 in Norway

8c?

Climb the crux of Stive Dempere (8a+) and traverse into Draumkvedet (8c) at the jamming crack and climb the top of Draumkvedet. A hard boulder at the top. There is no good rest on the route and the top crux is harder than the crux on Stive Dempere. For this reason: 8b or 8b+.

Note: The name "Araber flikk-flakk" is referring to an exercise in gymnastics - a name chosen by Håkon Hansen. There is nothing racist about it.

Thin and sharp route that starts left of "Vriåtter" and later enters into the same finish. Very nice and probably a bit unusual sequences needed to climb the first half. This route is underrated in the local guide books. BEWARE that the sling in bolt#3 can turn into a awkward and dangerous position while passing it; I recommend to either tape it in place or use a maillon.

SS

Start with left hand mid height in vertical crack and right hand in undercling.

Highball

Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

Starts as for Jamaica, then traverses right past Revolting Cocks, then up.

FA: Adam Pustelnik

http://hvalerklatring.blogspot.com/2018/11/thilo-gar-8b-prosjekt-pa-rolvsy.html

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