Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up.

It doesnt get much thinner than this. the direct line up the blankish slab 5m left of Celluloid Heroes. The grade is height dependent.

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

Liting

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab. Note: Broken crux hold as of 2021, yet to be re-climbed. Likely at least V11 now.

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Sit start on two angled slots and move up and left on crimps to finish on Epsilon Crack jug.

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug.

A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015.

Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory.

First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk

Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to.

Lower Cave.

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers.

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

Some think it might be 30..

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL.

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out.

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies.

Start back of cave with LH undercling jug and RH arete. Slap up arete and edges in roof. Give some beans to gain the arete and finish up glory jugs to top out. Stay tight to avoid dab. Recommend sweater over rock as crashpad. (Project #34 in guide).

📹 When in Rome

Start at the bottom of the cave, climb the long roof crack and top out through the little hole.

Stephen Waring

Trent Searcy

Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab.

Start on slopey holds in the roof, head straight out and up through heel hook trickery.

Sit start matched in the slot under the roof. Finish up pump action.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Ridunculous.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Pump Action.

The longest pumper on the wall. Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Last Waltz.

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

Left arete of the main boulder - 4m left of CM. First ascent by Julien Saunders.

Dynamic one-mover

More like a route. Long and intense line right of 'The Cop...' going all the way to the top of the wall.

A big traverse starting to the right of Problem #3 and finishing as for Problem #1

Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds.

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.