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Praia do Facho

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Summary

Excellent rock quality boulders besides the sea, with easy access, right next to Praia do Facho

Description

An amazing place right at Praia do Facho, with potential for some good sessions of bouldering. The area is not huge, but the quality of the rock (granite) is impressive considering it is right next to the sea.

Most routes are on the short side, due to the boulders not being very high, but the diversity of rock features ensures that the climbing will be fun. You can find some overhanging (almost roof) routes as well as slabs.

Depending on the weather and sea levels, it might be impossible to do some boulders due to the water on the ground (the water gets trapped in puddles).

Approach

There is a car parking at Praia do Facho https://goo.gl/maps/548G5kP5476ZC9do7 (probably full on the busiest days) near the restaurant and then cross the sand to reach the rock formation (visible from the park)

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start. Start with left and right hand on the crimps.

Set: Paulo Viterbo, 5 Nov 2022

FA: Rui Fonseca, 14 Feb 2023

Sit start. Left hand on the left side pull and right hand on the right side pull.

Best during low tide. Gets sun exposure all day. One crashpad minimum, two is best.

Set: Victor Fernandes

FA: Rui Fonseca, 28 Nov 2022

Sit start. Start with both hands on the right hand hold of "Salto do Mussolini" (the vertical sideways crimp/finger slot and diagonal crimp above), and go to the good lip to the right and mantle.

Best during low tide.

Transverse. ⚠️ Please don't use the top pegs. Because those will remove all the difficulty and fun from the problem

Transverse like the Pata na poça. And the last move is a dynamic move to the rock at the right side from this boulder ⚠️ Please don't use the top pegs. Because those will remove all the difficulty and fun from the problem

Great place to warm up and come up with short elimination problems

There is usually a pond right bellow the boulder, so it either needs to dry (in the summer) or bring your best bucket

Sit start. Starting with both hands on the jug.

FA: Rissol, 13 Jan 2023

Set: Rissol, 13 Jan 2023

Sit start. Both hands on the good hold.

FA: Paulo Viterbo, 13 Jan 2023

Set: Paulo Viterbo, 13 Jan 2023

Sit start. Both hands on the good hold to the left

Sit start. Starting with both hands on the undercling below or one hand on the undercling below and another on the edge.

Sit start. Start with both hands on the edge like a left sidepull.

FA: Rui Fonseca, 13 Jan 2023

Set: Rui Fonseca, 13 Jan 2023

Sit start. Start with both hands on the crimp.

Starting at the lowest possible holds (it is not possible to have a crashpad) and then doing the traverse to the left face

FA: Rui Vilarinho, 1 Dec 2022

Set: Rui Fonseca & Joao Costa, 1 Dec 2022

Starting on the mono pocket and then traverse left into "Rasputin"

Sit Start. Both hands on the good hold.

Sit start. Starting on the underclings down at the bottom.

The floor could have water.

Sit start. Same start as "Regime da Limonada" but after the first moves to the right.

Sit start

Set: Rui Fonseca & Victor Fernandes

FA: Rui Fonseca, 8 Feb 2022

Set: Clara Vinci, 27 Nov 2022

Do not use the two central boulders marked with a red cross

FA: Samuel Kalika

Set: Samuel Kalika & Miguel Martins

Set: Victor Fernandes & Rui Fonseca, Jun 2023

FA: Rui Fonseca, 12 Jun 2023

This is a sit start and slab. Locate the holds that are marked as yellow circle and position your hands. Avoid relying on the edge for support. Instead, focus your efforts on utilizing the left side of the boulder to do your ascent.

#sitstart #roof start closer to the left side, then using the holds on the left side of the roof and corner

Set: Rui Fonseca

FA: Rui Fonseca, 13 Sep 2023

#sitstart #roof Start in the middle of the roof. Using the undercling near the roof crack and using the middle roof face holds, only on the right side (avoiding the jug holds on the left used for "Qual é o valor da tua ferramenta?" and the right hand side holds of "Tecto da Cooperativa"

Set: Rui Fonseca

FA: Rui Fonseca, 13 Sep 2023

#sitstart #roof Start in the middle of the roof and use the right hand side and corner holds. Not using any holds of the wall to the right (right hand side of the vertical crack defining the roof boulder)

Set: Rui Fonseca

FA: Rui Fonseca, 13 Sep 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Carlos Simes

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9788898609772

A selective guidebook describing the best rock climbing found in Portugal, covering the whole of the country from Meadinha in the north, and many crags around Lisbon to Sagres in the south.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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