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El Carallon

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Description

Long overhanging wall with many sport routes well equipped with bolts.

Access issues inherited from Fenda

38.4794950, -8.9836190 park here. Easiest approach is walk down 5 minutes with the path and repel down (15 meters) to crag Cu de Judas. This is also the way back up (3) Other option is park on the spot before (coming from west). Then you go down with the trail and need to take a left and walk below 20 minutes to the crag.

Approach

Park at 38.481514, -8.981114 or near and find a path down. It is not very visible, but it is there. The approach is rather steeply down with parts secured by a rope.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at "Último voo de nosferatu" but ends at the top of "Reforma educativa".

1 6c 18m
2 7b+ 7m

Climb the crack feature, grab the tip of the penis-like tufa, ride it for a few moves, move left then right, up passing pitch one anchors to the slab for the run to the pitch two anchor.

There is an optional 8th bolt from the route to the left immediately below the pitch one anchors than can be used to avoid a rather large whip. You'll be able to remove that quick draw while at the anchor, to reduce rope drag, if completing pitch two.

Ground fall potential clipping bolt 3, local climbers often stick clip the second and pre-place an extra long draw on bolt 3 to reduce risk as well as rope drag.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): R. Rosado

Date: 2020

Author(s): Carlos Simes

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9788898609772

A selective guidebook describing the best rock climbing found in Portugal, covering the whole of the country from Meadinha in the north, and many crags around Lisbon to Sagres in the south.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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