A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Bersuc Mila Chase Aaron Miller alex707 Nickolay Pastuch Fabian Robescu Radu kosta Kai Steve Daltrey Mirel Porojan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Valea Cernei / Cerna Valley
322 in Crag
-
1.1.
Vânturătoarea / Cascada Vânturatoarea 101 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Faleza De Jos 14 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Sector 1 47 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Sector 2 39 in Sector
- 1.1.4. Sector 3 1 in Sector
- 1.2. Km 9 103 in Sector
- 1.3. Km 20 17 in Crag
- 1.4. Km 10 24 in Area
- 1.5. Km 11 13 in Sector
- 1.6. Cheile Ţăsna 40 in Sector
- 1.7. Cheile Prisăcinei 4 in Sector
- 1.8. Cheile Cociu 7 in Sector
- 1.9. Ineleț Cinema 13 in Crag
-
1.1.
Vânturătoarea / Cascada Vânturatoarea 101 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Valea Cernei 322 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.970743, 22.511346
1.1. Vânturătoarea 101 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.966657, 22.471327
summary
Probably the most sought-after climbing sector in Romania, as featured in the 2014 Petzl RocTrip Video. Here you will find Stone Butterfly, 9a+ among other test-pieces grade 8 and above.
description
An incredibly beautiful sector of limestone situated on either side of a huge waterfall. The name roughy translates to Angel's Wings and it looks just like it from the viewpoint on the way to the wall. Popular with hikers and climbers alike, this is a must-see in Romania. Here you will find the best quality in mostly harder lines, 6c and above. In the upper right sector 2 a lot of grade 8 climbs still need a first ascent! The wall is great in early or late summer as well as the temperatures by the waterfall remain low especially with a breeze.
This area is primarily an afternoon crag, with the first section of the wall just left of the waterfall (Sector 1, Left) going into the shade around noon. Right of the waterfall (Sector 1, Right) and the upper left walls around the corner past the waterfall (sector 2, Upper) do not see full shade in the upper half until 2 pm or later. The lower wall around the corner below the main climbs of sector 2 (Sector 2, Lower) stays shaded but these routes are short and lower-quality. Sector 3 gets shade earlier but is heavily overgrown and mostly ignored, as the quality is not as good, on tall broken low-angle rock. Sector Faleza de Jos gets sun almost all day until after 5 pm, and was not highly-praised by the locals.
There is a recent edition of the Baile Herculaine guidebook with an excellent topo of this area and other in the region including most of the satellite crags dotted along the valley.
access issues
The parking area GPS (44.96439, 22.48412) is limited and shared by hikers and climbers alike. As of late September 2023 the area across the bridge by the houses was roped off to prevent parking, maybe to expand the lot. Please park on the highway side of bridge and leave room for big trucks to get through. If the lot is full, do not crowd it...either go somewhere else or carpool from another parking area. On weekends it is best to get here by noon, or wait till later in the afternoon to find a spot after the hikers have left.
approach
Cross the bridge and go along the fence line to find the big info sign. Follow the trail marker up the hill next to the houses and then go RIGHT where you see the trail split, following the red cross trail across the small metal bridge and up the hill.
(Do NOT make the mistake of going straight past the second signpost following the creek, as you will quickly lose track of the barely-visible trail and potentially get stuck in a very steep valley.)
Follow the red cross markers up the initially intense uphill trail for 35-45 minutes to reach the wall. Sector Faleza de Jos is along the way there with a faint trail uphill to the right...hard to find as you cannot see the wall from the trail through the trees. When you reach the waterfall, going right uphill will take you to the right half of Sector 1. Go under the falls following the wall to find the left half of Sector 1. Sector 2 is around the corner, and uphill a bit, divided into an upper and lower wall. Sector 3 is uphill further beyond, through a scree field and some vegetation.
where to stay
Plenty of hotels, Airbnb's and other rentals in town. There are also multiple campgrounds scattered throughout the valley. Past the town of Baile Herculaine after the visitor center, you lose cellular reception.
ethic
Do not litter. Pack out all your trash. Take your toilet paper with you. If you see hikers littering, say something! Keep this area beautiful for everyone to use. It is normal for people to leave gear hidden at the wall to make the hike easier for following days. Please respect everyone's property and leave it alone if it's not yours so everyone can enjoy the climbing here.
1.1.1. Faleza De Jos 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
A small, sunny sector of climbing with about 16 routes, located on the right as you ascend the trail to the waterfall. The trail is hard to find, as you cannot see the wall above you when the trees are full.
approach
Hike about halfway up the trail and start looking right. If you make it to the waterfall viewpoint outcropping, you've gone too far.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lolek | {FR} 6a | ||||
2 | Bolek | {FR} 6b | ||||
3 | Pescărușul albastru | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
4 | Agricultorul | {FR} 6a | ||||
5 | Bicefal dreapta | {FR} 5b | ||||
6 | Shorty | {FR} 8a+ | 12m | |||
7 | Heads up | {FR} 7b | ||||
8 | The nest | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
9 | 4 anotimpuri | {FR} 7a | ||||
10 | Ploaie de primăvară | {FR} 7a | ||||
11 | Illuminati | {FR} 7b | ||||
12 | Praf de stele | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
13 | 13 aprilie | {FR} 6a | ||||
14 | Dinamometric | {FR} 5b |
1.1.2. Sector 1 47 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
The first sector you'll see as you reach the waterfall. The right half of this sector starts uphill on a tall ledge, with No Country for Old Men on the furthest left where the ledge tapers off to a rope leash. It continues up the hill to the right, finishing with Joint Venture past the small cave. The left half of Sector 1 starts on the lower wall right of the waterfall. Go under the waterfall around the bend where the first route you see with be the Subroofer project. The furthest-left route is P.O.H.U.I., which is first line right of the dihedral crack containing Guilty Pleasures (with the small tree in it near the corner).
approach
The main part of this wall is the group of routes left of the waterfall before the corner. 5 routes are located on the lower wall right of the waterfall: Galusca (project), Super Humans (project), Inventiv (project), Picaturi, and Piscaturi, from left to right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ P.O.H.U.I
Start up the white rock in small the inset before the wall turns a corner and goes uphill a bit. Just right of the dihedral crack with a tree containing Guilty Pleasures. Technical start with an amazing juggy finish on overhang. | {FR} 6a+ | 35m | |||
2 |
★★★ Do it yourself
Solve a hard roof boulder that leads to somewhat easier semi-sustained face-climbing. | {FR} 6c+ | 35m | |||
3 |
★★★ Rachiu cu vai
One of the most popular "7's" at the crag, and definitely the highest of quality....although the grade is up for debate. There's a reason it's a lot of people's first "7a+". | {FR} 7a+ | 35m | |||
4 | Ice is nice | {FR} 7c | 35m | |||
5 | ★★★ Axis Mundi | {FR} 7b+ | 35m | |||
6 | ★★★ Elements | {FR} 7b+ | 35m | |||
7 | ★★★ Bulina | {FR} 7c | 35m | |||
8 | Cats | {FR} 8a | 35m | |||
9 |
★★★ Dogs
An exquisite line of thuggery culminating in a powerful V6-ish (6c+/7a) boulder problem where a larger ape index might play to your advantage...or not. | {FR} 7c | 25m | |||
10 |
Choose right! (left)
The left variation breaks into a left line a few of bolts, skipping the 7c+ crux of the direct line. Make it to the roof then traverse right to re-join the main bolt line. | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★★★ Choose right! (right)
The direct variant with a difficult power-endurance crux on edges. | {FR} 7c+ | 25m | |||
12 |
Rusty nail
Set: Gerhard Hornhager FA: Mike Fuselier, 2015 | {FR} 8b+ | 25m | |||
13 | Guri Guri | {FR} 8b | 25m | |||
14 |
Butterfly
The lower part of Stone Butterfly. | {FR} 8c+ | 10m | |||
15 |
Stone butterfly
Set: Gerhard Hörhager FA: Adam Ondra, 15 May 2018 | {FR} 9a+ | 15m | |||
16 | Viper Viper | {FR} 8a | 10m | |||
17 | Viper Viper Extension | {FR} 8c+ | ||||
18 | Subroofer | 15m | ||||
19 | Gălușcă | 15m | ||||
20 | Super humans | 15m | ||||
21 | Inventiv | 18m | ||||
22 | Picături / Droplets | {FR} 7a | 18m | |||
23 | Pișcături / Bites | {FR} 6b+ | 10m | |||
24 | No Country for Old Men | {FR} 7b | 30m | |||
25 | Pintea | {FR} 7b | 30m | |||
26 | ★★★ Kiss with a Fist | {FR} 7a+ | 30m | |||
27 | Young and Restless | {FR} 7c | 30m | |||
28 | Triple Slap | {FR} 7c | 26m | |||
29 | Top Spin | {FR} 7c+ | 30m | |||
30 | Spike Connection | {FR} 7a+ | 25m | |||
31 | Fachirul | {FR} 7b+ | 20m | |||
32 | Cottonmouth | {FR} 7c+ | 30m | |||
33 | Pokiu | {FR} 7c | 28m | |||
34 | Pokiu Extension | |||||
35 | Dark Knights | 15m | ||||
36 | La Placă | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||
37 | Brave | |||||
38 | Brave and Humble | 30m | ||||
39 | Strength and Honour | {FR} 8a+ | 30m | |||
40 | Annapurna | {FR} 8a | 30m | |||
41 | Explică-mi! / Explain me! | {FR} 8a+ | 15m | |||
42 | Pump Fiction | {FR} 8a | 25m | |||
43 |
Kashmir
FA: Bogdan Rus, 2016 | {FR} 8b+/c | 25m | |||
44 | Sarabanda | 15m | ||||
45 | Batacanda | 15m | ||||
46 | La Scuceala | {FR} 8a | 22m | |||
47 | Joint Venture | {FR} 7a | 15m |
1.1.3. Sector 2 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Hike past the waterfall, around the corner and uphill to find this sector. North-east facing mostly, the upper-ledge routes go into shade from right to left starting around 2 pm, the last routes on the upper left going into shade around 4 pm roughly. The lower wall stays in the shade except a few right-most routes past the small break, and the furthest right section (5 routes) back down the hill sharing the corner with Sector 1 gets shade around noon.
approach
The last route in sector 2 from the guidebook is Guilty Pleasures, 5b which is located in an obvious crack with a small tree in it as you turn the corner to go uphill past Sector 1. There is a small grouping of 5 routes here separate from the rest of Sector 2.
The first route listed in the guidebook for Sector 2 is located uphill on the left end of upper ledge, accessed by walking all the way to the end of the sector past the lower wall to where it tapers and meets with the upper wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Masala | {FR} 7b | ||||
2 | Nucșoară | {FR} 6c+ | 3 | |||
3 | Scorțișoară | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
4 | Scorțișoară Extension | {FR} 7a | ||||
5 | ★★ Turmeric | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
6 | Daddy be cool | {FR} 6a | ||||
7 | Cardamom | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
8 | ★★ Vegeta | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
9 | ★★ Aqua forte | {FR} 6b | ||||
10 | Aqua Forte Extension | |||||
11 | ★ Capra mică | {FR} 5a | ||||
12 | Capra mare | {FR} 5c | ||||
13 | Guano | {FR} 6a | ||||
14 | ★★ Ma friend | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
15 | Cassiopeia | {FR} 5a | ||||
16 | ★★ Cloud Atlas | {FR} 5b | ||||
17 | Pisang | {FR} 5b | ||||
18 | Caru Mare | {FR} 5 | ||||
19 | Castor | {FR} 5 | ||||
20 | Pollux | {FR} 6a | ||||
21 | Y-grec | {US} FR:6a+ | ||||
22 | Black cat, white cat | {US} FR:8a+ | ||||
23 | G Force | {US} FR:7a+ | ||||
24 | G Force Extension | |||||
25 | Beef Power | {US} FR:7b+ | ||||
26 | ★★★ Air Force | {US} FR:7c | ||||
27 | Blinded by the light | {US} FR:8b+ | ||||
28 |
Mrs Baba
FA: Cédric Lachat | {US} FR:8b/b+ | ||||
29 | Timișoara | |||||
30 | Black Cobra | {US} FR:8b | ||||
31 |
Black Cobra Extension
FA: Adam Ondra, 13 May 2018 | {FR} 9a | ||||
32 | Sky Walker | |||||
33 | Antigiro | |||||
34 |
★★★ Legudovaran / Legudowaran
Set: Felix Fromm FA: Dani Andrada | {FR} 8c+ | 3 | |||
35 | Pleasure Lane | {US} FR:6c+ | ||||
36 | The Good Life | {US} FR:6a+ | ||||
37 | Joyride | {US} FR:6b+ | ||||
38 | ★ Paradise City | {US} FR:6b | ||||
39 | ★ Guilty Pleasures | {US} FR:5a |
1.1.4. Sector 3 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
A small, heavily vegetated sub-area of low-angle climbing on broken crack systems.
approach
Hike past Sector 2 past where the wall stopx. Break left into the faint trail on the scree field until you see the routes on the right when the wall starts again, another few minutes up the hill.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Saxifraga | {US} FR:6b+ |
1.2. Km 9 103 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.950931, 22.477889
description
Limestone crag at the 9km marker from Baile Herculane towards Cerna sat. Various sectors of sun and shade. Sectors 1 and 4 get shade pretty much all day, as well as the right half of Sector 5 where the quality lines are. The left half of Sector 5 starts going into the sun left to right around 2 pm. Sector 2 and 3 get sun around 2 pm as well, mostly on the top half of the routes.
approach
The 9km marker is on the backside of the stone if you're driving away from BH. Parking area is just before and after the marker, around here: GPS (44.952477, 22.475675).From the side of the road you take the path through a concrete wall opening towards the top limestone walls.
1.2.1. Sector 1 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
First sector you reach from the parking. Shade all day.
approach
10-15min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bobâlna Sfinx | {FR} 5c+ | 15m | |||
2 | ★ 7 izvoare | {FR} 5b | 12m | |||
3 | ★ Muierii-s cave | {FR} 5c | 12m | |||
4 | Broscuța / Little frog | {FR} 7a+ | 10m | |||
5 | Inox | {FR} 6b | 10m | |||
6 | Cucu | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
7 | Face off | {FR} 7b+ | 15m | |||
8 | Over | {FR} 6b | 15m | |||
9 | Rover | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||
10 | Grover | {FR} 6a+ | 12m | |||
11 | Pinus Nigra | {FR} 6b | 12m |
1.2.2. Sector 2 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
This sector sits above sector 1, and can be reached from either direction although the recommended path is going left and uphill past sector 1, then use the obvious trail that cuts up right above it. Hike past the last few sector 3 routes with a nice view to reach sector 2.
approach
15-20min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lotus | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
2 | Piciorul lui Pinochio | {FR} 7b+ | 20m | |||
3 | Focus | {FR} 7c | 20m | |||
4 | Tricky | {FR} 6c+ | 25m | |||
5 | Green power | {FR} 7c | 15m | |||
6 | Supaplex | 20m | ||||
7 | Umpic | {FR} 7c+ | 20m | |||
8 | Clăbucoman | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||
9 | Doi dintre noi | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||
10 | Bulbucoman | {FR} 8b | 20m | |||
11 | Free tuning | 20m | ||||
12 | Gecko's surprise | 15m | ||||
13 | Gușteru parfumat | {FR} 7c+ | 25m | |||
14 | Bad habit | {FR} 7b | 20m | |||
15 | Le frog | {FR} 7c+ | 23m | |||
16 | Bulion | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||
17 | Apropos | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
18 | La fixe | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
19 | Baluba | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||
20 | Cocostârcul japonez | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||
21 | To the airport | {FR} 6a+ | 8m | |||
22 | Descopery | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||
23 | Open your mind | {FR} 7a+ | 15m | |||
24 | Equilibrium | {FR} 7b+ | 15m | |||
25 | King of the hill | {FR} 8a | 15m | |||
26 | Licurici | {FR} 8a | 15m | |||
27 | Tankball | {FR} 6b | 15m | |||
28 | Iron gates | {FR} 6a | 15m | |||
29 | Țiganii în alertă | {FR} 6a | 15m | |||
30 | Pușca cu lunetă | {FR} 6a | 15m |
1.2.3. Sector 3 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Hike left and uphill past sector 1.
approach
15-20min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | K1 | {FR} 5b+ | 7m | |||
2 |
Zorro absolut
Grade is from the available topo, but apparently it's massively overgraded in the topo, multiple climbers reported it as a 6a+. Haven't tried it myself, yet. | {FR} 7c+ | 7m | |||
3 | Baia-zid | {FR} 7a+ | 7m | |||
4 | Show me the cașcaval | {FR} 8a | 27m | |||
5 | 7 mici | {FR} 7a | 30m | |||
6 | 7 mici - extensie | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Praf și pulbere | {FR} 8a+ | 27m | |||
8 | Bibimpab | 20m | ||||
9 | Bibimpab - extensie | 30m | ||||
10 | Mamica Mia | {FR} 8a+ | 30m | |||
11 | La vârsta a 2-a | 30m | ||||
12 | Chicks for free | 30m | ||||
13 | Money for nothing | {FR} 7c | 30m | |||
14 | Money for nothing - extensie | 40m | ||||
15 | BoriSanchez | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||
16 | Balet de toamnă | {FR} 7c | 25m | |||
17 | Tree Friend | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||
18 | Pangeea | {FR} 7c | 25m | |||
19 | Kiwi | 20m | ||||
20 | ks | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||
21 | ks - extensie | {FR} 8b | 30m | |||
22 | Silent partner | {FR} 8a | 25m | |||
23 | Tufa King nothing | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||
24 | Addicted to... | {FR} 8a | 15m |
1.2.4. Sector 4 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Hike left and uphill past sectors 1 and 3, and continue left and downhill a bit.
approach
20-25min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Chiruca | {FR} 5b+ | 12m, 11 | |||
2 | ★★ Buna Mili | {FR} 5b | 12m, 7 | |||
3 | ★★ Evgenia | {FR} 5b | 12m, 7 | |||
4 | ★★ Strumfița | {FR} 5c | 12m, 6 | |||
5 | ★ Svetlana | {FR} 5c | 15m, 6 | |||
6 | Chocolat | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
7 | ★★★ The crew | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||
8 | ★★★ Renus is back | {FR} 7c | 20m | |||
9 | ★★★ Cu pasiunea în sânge | {FR} 7c | 15m | |||
10 | Bonobo | {FR} 7b | 15m | |||
11 | ★★★ Ori-ori-ori-ori | {FR} 7a+ | 15m | |||
12 | Ori-ori-ori-ori-extensie | {FR} 7b | 23m | |||
13 | Timberrr | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
14 | Timberrr top | {FR} 7a+ | 10m | |||
15 | Think fast | {FR} 7b | 15m | |||
16 | Think pink | {FR} 7c+ | 20m | |||
17 | Think pink - extensie | {FR} 8a+ | 10m | |||
18 | A complex | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||
19 | A complex Direct | {FR} 7b | 13m | |||
20 | It's complicated | 25m |
1.2.5. Sector 5 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Hike past sectors 1, 3, 4 and downhill a bit to find this last sector with a few quality lines on the right side that always stay in the shade.
approach
25-30min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | One more | {FR} 7c | 20m | |||
2 | Up... to you! | {FR} 7c+ | 20m | |||
3 | Șah pe verticală | {FR} 7b | 15m | |||
4 | Sabia lui Damocles | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||
5 | Verboten | {FR} 8a | 15m | |||
6 | Indexu' lu' Castro | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
7 | K2 limacși | {FR} 5b | 35m, 2 | |||
8 | Easy love | {FR} 6a+/b | 25m | |||
9 | Ami și vipera | {FR} 6a/a+ | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Zdreanță | {FR} 5b | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Kimchi
Punchy and core-intensive right off the deck with an easier finish. Hard for the grade. | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
12 | Lepurele alb | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
13 |
★★★ Swiss cheese
A uniquely classic line that finishes up inside a cave. Don't miss the cheeky double-kneebar bat-hang! | {FR} 6a | 15m | |||
14 |
★★ Gălușca
Although not as classic as Swiss Cheese, this line is still worth doing as it shares similar features in a slightly more difficult setting. Fun finish. | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||
15 | Neo | {FR} 6c/c+ | 20m | |||
16 | Mamba | {FR} 7b | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Black Mamba | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
18 |
★★ Girls allowed
A test of many disciplines that culminates in a reachy, bouldery roof crux on less-than-ideal holds. Knee-bar, core up, or just huck for the sinker jug. Be nice to the big wiggly flake below the crux... | {FR} 6c+ | 20m |
1.3. Km 20 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.021424, 22.557431
summary
Follow the road (DN67D) that connects Băile Herculane town with "Baia de Aramă", through the Cerna Valle. Park your car after the milestone that shows "20 km to Băile Herculane" (it is on the backside of the milestone, when you come from Băile Herculane town). The cliffs of this sector are all on the other side of the Cerna River (there is a wooden bridge), and are all visible from the road. Sector 1 is next to the water, after crossing the bridge take a sharp left until a small clearing and follow the river. For the other sectors, in the clearing take the path to the right, from the clearing and follow that until you reach a road that you will cross. Continue 50 m on the road, next sector is on the right, routes are not marked.
1.3.1. Sector 1 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Castana | {FR} 5c | 20m | |||
2 | Baby don't krai | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
3 | Patrocle | {FR} 5c+ | 15m | |||
4 | Lizuca | {FR} 5c+ | 15m | |||
5 | Fisura întunecată / Dark crack | {FR} 5b | 20m | |||
6 | Salam de biscuiți | {FR} 5c | 20m | |||
7 | Topul la corac | {FR} 5a | 18m |
1.3.2. Sector 2 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lassie | {FR} 6b | 12m | |||
2 | Tuti | {FR} 6c | 25m | |||
3 | Lăbuș | {FR} 6a+ | 25m, 2 | |||
4 | Zdreanță | {FR} 5c+ | 25m |
1.3.3. Sector 3 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flour power | {FR} 8a+ | 7m | |||
2 | Pinalti | {FR} 8b | 12m | |||
3 | Dărmănești tranzit | 12m | ||||
4 | Dărmănești central | {FR} 8a | 12m, 2 | |||
5 | Dărmănești | {FR} 8a | 12m | |||
6 | Mărăței | {FR} 7b | 15m |
1.4. Km 10 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.957396, 22.482812
summary
Follow the road (DN 67D) that connects Baile Herculane town with "Baia de Arama", through the Cerna Valley. Park your car 200m before the milestone that shows "10km to Baile Herculane" (it is on the backside of the milestone, when you come from Bailer Herculane twon). Take the path in thw woods that starts at the end of the sidewall of the road across where you have parked. After ~100m the path turns hard to the left and goes flat on the mountainside until it reaches a meadow. Here you will look up to the cliffs and follow the right margin of the meadow, straight up. At the right-end cornder of the meadow you will follow the path back into the woods. The path will go almost straight up towards the cliffs and get there in front of the routes "Cave" and "Carstic". Here is a small cave where you can hide from rainshowers. There is a waterspring situated between the road the meadow you passed. To find it follow a path that starts going down towards the road at the left low end of the meadow.
1.4.1. Sector 1 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Comanda vocala | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||
2 | ★ For fun | {FR} 5c | 10m | |||
3 | ★ Easy go | {FR} 5b | 10m | |||
4 | Easy way | {FR} 5b | 10m | |||
5 | Indecis | {FR} 6c+ | 25m | |||
6 | Scara Beu | {FR} 6b | 10m | |||
7 | Kein plan | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
8 | Anti-Tanti | {FR} 8a | 25m | |||
9 | Fast un Gel | {FR} 7b | 25m |
1.4.2. Sector 2 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ La 3 pași de frigider | {FR} 5c | 10m | |||
2 | ★★ Junior | {FR} 5c+ | 10m | |||
3 | Final step | {FR} 6a+ | 12m | |||
4 | Smart | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
5 | Cave | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
6 | Avantaje | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Carstic | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
8 | Regles must be regles | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||
9 | ★★★ Alice in Wonderland | {FR} 7c | 25m | |||
10 | Wild honey | {FR} 7a | 25m | |||
11 | Dear Blueberry | {FR} 7c+ | 25m | |||
12 | Guvidu flaușat | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||
13 | Diesel power | {FR} 7b | 25m | |||
14 | Sote de carrottes | {FR} 7a | 25m | |||
15 | Naked lunch | {FR} 7b+ | 25m |
1.5. Km 11 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.961067, 22.485046
1.5.1. Sector 1 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flopy | 6+ | 15m | |||
2 | Tomy | 6/6+ | 15m | |||
3 | Căutătorul | 8 | 15m | |||
4 | Sevraj | 9- | 17m | |||
5 | Drumul Cenuşii | 8-/8 | 22m | |||
6 | Nirvana | 7/7+ | 20m | |||
7 | Ţepeş | 7- | 17m | |||
8 | Rugină | 7 | 15m |
1.5.2. Sector 2 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Silence Please! | 9-/9 | 17m | |||
2 | Yo-Yo | 9-/9 | 22m | |||
3 | Fugi Nicolae, Fugi! | 8-/8 | 22m | |||
4 | Neghiniţă | 7 | 15m | |||
5 | Ice Age | 7/7+ | 15m |
1.6. Cheile Ţăsna 40 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.972715, 22.499286
description
Multiple reports of area being sandbagged across all grades.
|
1.6.1. Sector A 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Graded at 5c+ in another topo, it's very hard for the grade, possibly missgraded. Closer to a 6a+. | ||||||||
2 | ★★ Speedy Gonzales | {FR} 5c+ | 15m | |||||
3 | ★ Milka Again | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||||
4 | Inspiraţie | {FR} 6a+ | 17m | |||||
5 | Pas | {FR} 6a | 17m |
1.6.2. Sector B 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Perplex | {FR} 6b+ | 12m | |||
2 | E strâmbă, bă! | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||
3 | Gugulanul | {FR} 7c | 32m | |||
4 |
★★★ Fantastic 4
Until the first top. | {FR} 6a+ | 12m | |||
5 |
★★ Fantastic 4 extension
When climbing the whole route until the second top. | {FR} 7a | ||||
6 | ★★★ La Vita e Bella | {FR} 7a+ | 28m | |||
7 | Copacul Vieţii | 35m | ||||
8 | Dansând cu lupii | 25m |
1.6.3. Sector C 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Parfum de femeie | 32m | ||||||
Questionable route, needs to be cleaned bottom up | ||||||||
3 | ★★★ Turn to the right | {FR} 5c | 25m | |||||
4 | White Butterfly | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Viva la Vida | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★★ 707 Days | {FR} 7b+ | 20m | |||||
7 | ★★★ First Try | {FR} 7c | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★★ Influenţe | {FR} 7b+ | 17m | |||||
9 | Bănuţel | {FR} 7c | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Thanks | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||||
11 | Bow to the Bow | {FR} 5c | 15m |
1.6.4. Sector D 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Master of Grotesque | {FR} 8a | 30m | |||
2 | Relationship | {FR} 7c | 25m | |||
3 | Nea Dorel | {FR} 6b | 27m | |||
4 | Keep it Simple | {FR} 6c+ | 27m | |||
5 | ★★ Pegas | {FR} 6b | 28m | |||
6 | Cronos | 20m | ||||
7 | Heracles | 25m | ||||
8 |
Echidna (last bolt)
Use the anchor at the last bolt as a top. | {FR} 6b+ | 22m | |||
9 |
Echidna (until top)
If you climb this one until the top, the part after the last bolt is the bouldery crux which is responsible for the grade. | {FR} 7b/b+ | 22m | |||
10 | Mata Hari | {FR} 5c+ | 30m | |||
11 | Big Trip | 48m | ||||
12 | ★★★ Gem Journey | {FR} 7a | 35m | |||
13 | ★★★ Sinus | {FR} 6c+ | 33m |
1.6.5. Sector E 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cătinel | 6 | 15m | |||
2 | Olecuţă | 6/6+ | 12m |
1.6.6. Sector F 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Double Trouble | 10-/10 | 23m | |||
2 | ★★★ Angel | 9-/9 | 23m | |||
3 | Diablo | 23m |
1.7. Cheile Prisăcinei 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 45.001943, 22.514936
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Traseul Peretele Prisăcina | 6- A1 5B | 10 | |||
2 | Traseul Scheienilor | 5B | 4 | |||
3 | Creaţia | 5B | 10 | |||
4 | Soarele | 6- A1 5B | 10 |
1.8. Cheile Cociu 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 44.919706, 22.463758
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Arcada Roşeţului | 6+ A1 5B | 9 | |||
2 | Floarea de Stâncă | 7- A1 5B | 9 | |||
3 | Margareta | 5+ A1 5B | 9 | |||
4 | Gelu | 4B | 3 | |||
5 | Păstrăvul | 6A | ||||
6 | Şarpele Cociului | 3B | 9 | |||
7 | Ruine | 6 A1 5B | 9 |
1.9. Ineleț Cinema 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.015188, 22.548218
summary
Uncertain grades (estimated from toprope)
approach
Enter the Inelet path, reach the bench in 6-7minutes, then turn sharply left on a slightly vegetated path, reaching the wall in 1min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
I'll never be hungry again
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 6a+/b | ||||
2 |
This is Sparta!
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7b+ | 26m, 10 | |||
3 |
Winter is coming
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 8a | 32m, 13 | |||
4 |
You had me at hello
Intermediate top at 24m, 7a (9 quickdraws) up to it Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7a/a+ | 32m, 2, 12 | |||
5 |
I don't give a damn
Harder than 8a | 31m, 11 | ||||
6 |
My precious
Intermediate top at 25m, 9 quickdraws up to it (7b) Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7b+/c | 30m, 2, 13 | |||
7 |
You can't handle the truth
Intermediate top at 24m, 8 quickdraws up to it, 7a-7b Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7c | 30m, 2, 12 | |||
8 |
Buongiorno principessa
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, 27 Aug 2022 | FR:5c+ | 19m, 8 | |||
9 |
There is no spoon
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | FR:6a | 19m, 8 | |||
10 |
There's no place like home
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7a | 20m, 7 | |||
11 |
To infinity and beyond
Warning Rock: Cracked column Removed first bolts due to damaged rock on the route Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7a | 20m, 7 | |||
12 |
Life is like a box of chocolates
Warning Rock: Cracked column Removed first bolts due to damaged rock on the route Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7b | 20m, 7 | |||
13 |
Show me the money
Set: Gabriel Tudorie, Jul 2022 | {FR} 7a | 18m, 7 |