Hope Buttress All Trad climbing 10 routes in sector

Start from a ledge to the right of a large dirty crack.

1. Climb the face slightly right then slightly left into a recess and up to a stance.

2. Climb up to a large ledge.

3. Walk left and climb the right side of the juggy wall.

4. Boulder up and climb leftwards through the arched roof.

5. Climb the scoop to a ledge and traverse right below a crack.

6. Climb the crack.

7. Climb up right through the overhang to a stance.

8. Climb up the break and fight through the offwitch. Pull through the overhang and finish up leftwards.

Start 15m left of the start/ grey open book on 'Butterfinger Crisp'

1. Bolted: 30m (18) From a boulder, pull onto the face and up to a tiny platform. Head straight up a system of vertical cracks and small corners to the huge ledge. Walk 15m right.

2. 25m (21) Just right of a huge boulder, pull up into a very wide crack that almost forms a corner that arches up and left. Step left onto a face and up and to a small tree. Pull up past the tree and up the steep layback above. Move 5m right to a belay.

3. 30m (17) Climb a few meters up a fin at the base of a grey corner. Step left on the face and head diagonally up and left to a narrow corner (with a fused seam). Follow this to a ledge and belay 5m right of some abseil tat.

4. 20m (16) Head up an orange ramp tending right to the steep wall of chicken heads. Follow this straight up to the top. This is likely the same finish as 'Butterfinger Crisp'

Walk along left under the long overhang and exit out past a tree. The route goes up passed a large nose feature.

1. Start left of the tree move up slightly right and upwards, gaining a small ledge and then upwards for a few more meters until your reach a large ledge with a big block on it.

2. Climb up the chimney placing gear on extensions as you move up, twin ropes are a good idea to avoid rope drag (clip one rope left of chimney and then the alternate tope only after completing the chimney. Zig zag gently across the thin face (stay low before moving up) and stance in the shady corner.

3. Climb the layback with committing style and place small cams in the powder tufa's at the top of the layback corner to protect the second before moving out left on the ramp. Place some small micro nuts and micro cams in the thin rail of the ramp for 5 metres and stance where there is good gear and a wide ledge.

4. Climb the jugs straight up and then move slightly right on the thin face and then left again before moving upwards to finish.

Wild at Heart, 25 Start: Hope Buttress has two big grey open books in the top half. We are interested in the right hand one. From the clump of pines walk up the left side of the valley between Hope and Charity Buttresses. Avoid the first broken band of rock and on the ledge above it head out left to the very long overhang. The route starts about 8m before the left-hand end of the overhang at a cairn.

1. [21] 15m

   Get off the ground at the big white dot on the rock. Meander up and left to stance at the lip of the overhang on the left at the cascade of creepers.

2. [20] 20m

   Go through the right-hand break in the overlaps above. Continue up to the big ledge system at the base of the beautiful, blunt orange arête with the yellow-white streak.

3. [25] 25m

   Start up the yellow-white streak on orange rock up to the roofs. Continue up directly on grey rock through the overlaps and then up the grey arête to a ledge.

4. [25] 40m

   Start at the back of the ledge then head out rightwards to gain the arête proper. Continue up the arête to the top (world-class).

Starts just left of the end of Butterfinger Crisp. Note: Anchors are slings rapped around rock features. Slings may need to be replaced so bring along a few 120cm slings and carabiners.