Routes in West Coast for selected grade

1. Climb the corner to a roof (as for Wakeling-Bird). Traverse left for a few meters until able to exit left into the break at the base of the crack using creative moves. Move up 2m to a stance.

2. Climb the crack strenuously until reaching a blank offwidth section after about 15m. Step left and climb a short face to a small ledge (may be better to stance here). Step right back into the crack and climb it for 3m until it fades, reaching a small alcove.

3. Move diagonally up and right towards the tree. Climb up past the tree using some pockets, until reaching easier ground. Traverse right under the roof until standing directly above the anchors of Big Fish (they are on an obvious ledge below you at this point).

Descent: roped scramble down to the anchors, first tending right, then back left. Abseil (35m). Alternatively, it may be more pleasant to extend this route and climb one more pitch up the diagonal crack to reach the abseil fig tree of Wakeling-Bird. It may also be possible to directly reach the anchors of Blue Train further right instead of scrambling down.

Climb the corner to a roof. Step right. Continue up past aloe to stance on a ledge. Continue up for 1-2 more pitches more or less straight up. No anchors at the top, but there is some abseil-tat around the fig tree at the top (take back up).

P1: 30m, (17). Start on the prow 5m to the left of the start of Vulture Culture. Climb up to the next ledge system and continue up the orange open book to a ledge.

P2: 30m (21). Start on the left-hand end of the ledge. Pull up to a rail. A difficult move leads up to the next rail (small cams and nuts). Move 2m left to where pockets lead up to good hand-holds that can be followed left-wards to a vertical crack (green BD cam). Climb up, moving further left onto the prow before coming back onto the right face and continuing up easier ground to stance on a ledge on the prow with a big jammed block.

P3: 30m (17). Continue straight up a crack system to the big lunch ledge. From here the next pitch starts 30m to the right (past a dassie traverse).

P4: 30m (16). Start at the base of an off-width crack in an open book. Climb the open book crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a stance on a second ledge next to a tree.

P5: 30m (18). From the stance, traverse 3m right on good rails to a vertical crack. Follow this to a ledge.

P6: 30m (17). Follow the crack system to the top.

Start: This route climbs up the large brown open-book system on the left-hand side of the wall.

P1: 30m (19). Climb the recess to a ledge, continue up the crack at the centre of the open-book to a large ledge.

P2: 30m (20). Continue up the crack until forced left under the roof. Delicate moves lead to a ledge stance on the left-hand edge of the large roof.

P3: 35m (17). Climb up the corner and continue straight up to the lunch ledge.

P4: 35m (17). Climb up the crack system nearest to the arette, directly above the last pitch. After 15m, cross over to the right hand side of the arette to a scoop. Continue up, passing by the left hand end of the prominent triangular roof visible from the base of the cliff.

P5: 30m (15). Continue straight up to the top.

P1: 17

P2: 21

P3: 16

P4: 18

About 20m left of the overhangs is an obvious crack splitting a face. Climb the arête to the left of this crack to the top.

The attraction is the right-facing off-width crack left of the huge overhang (left of The Tail Wags the Dog).

Start at the beacon (cairn) and climb the crack to the top. Crux midway up.

The left-hand side of Central Buttress extends out westwards in a prominent, fin shaped feature. Muscle Beach climbs the nose of this feature.

Start at the base of the undercut crack and climb the nose to the top.

This route starts in the second corner from the left. Beacon (cairn).

1. Move up on the ramp like corner. At the overhang move right, up and diagonally right to a small stance below a smooth corner.

2. Move up the corner, then through the small roof. Climb the following open-book/corner (crux) and then straight up to the top.

1. Climb the corner through a flared chimney. continue up the crack, moving past a plant hanging out the crack. Pull through the small roof above and make a stance.

2. Continue up the open book, moving past a loose block. At the top of the open book, step slightly right and continue easily up to the summit.

1. A tricky and committing start leads to the corner system. follow this up and slightly leftwards until able to mantle and make a stance.

2. Starting on the left, continue up discontinuous corners, trending right to a fair sized ledge. Climb the short crack to a large ledge in a cave feature. the next pitch starts near the right-hand edge of the cave.

3. Standing on a block, establish on the grey slabby corner. follow the slab until it steepens to vertical. mantle up and follow a short and gritty crack to the summit.

This route takes the first corner to the right of the mini-amphitheatre.

1. Climb the same corner as for Unknown Route 3 but rail left before getting to the roof, then follow the break into a tricky groove and up to a big ledge below the roofs.

2. Pull through the roof to the right of the ledge, then skirt the next roof to the right and climb up to a wide ledge. Belay from the ledge then walk left to the large cave. The next pitch starts near the right-hand edge of the cave.

3. Standing on a block, establish on the grey slabby corner. Follow the slab until it steepens to vertical. Mantle up and follow a short and gritty crack to the summit.

The second line from the amphitheatre edge (4m).

1. A difficult start then up the obvious break for 20m. Then move left into the book topped by a V-shaped block.

2. Above these move left for 4m then straight up to the top.

On the right-hand side of the right-hand amphitheatre is a crackline.

1. Climb the overhanging crackline to a ledge.

2. Rail right to a gritstone type arête. Climb this to the top.

This route is on the extreme right-hand side of the cliff-line of South Buttress. Look for a steepish red face capped by a grey corner/groove.

About a 100m further to the right of Let's Get Physical is an obvious steep red pillar. Where the farm boundary fence terminates against the rockface, walk another 100m to the right. The route starts on a rock platform at the base of the 22m high pillar.

Climb this straight up the middle to the highest point. The crux is turning the small overhang three-quarters of the way up.

Walk along the overhanging stretch of cliffs to the right, pass an easy looking grey ramp up the middle of the face. Continue to the next easy ramp, which only goes halfway up the face. Immediately to the left of this is an overhanging corner/crack.

Start at the beacon and climb straight up, turning the overhang on the left. Scramble down on the right.

Takes the huge dihedral in the middle of the left-hand end of this section of the cliff. Start at the undercut flake right of CT, below and left of the dihedral above.

1. Rail right to the grass tuft and climb the crack to the ledge. Walk right to the crack in the dihedral.

2. Climb the crack.

3. Continue up the open-book on the right. Traverse right at the top. Walk a short way right past the overhang at the top.

4. Climb up, rail right and then back left higher onto the face. Continue diagonally left to the top.

1. Start left of Kayaman. Climb up a vague break to a small ledge. Using a fraction of Kayaman, stance at the Dassie ledge.

2. Climb right to the beginning of the rail and move directly up right, then left, and right again up to a stance.

3. Move right and diagonally left up a face to stance on the right-hand edge.

4. Rail right to a juggy break, and then diagonally leftward to the top (70m).

Left of Icthyosaurus crack is a smooth wall. A line of jugs run diagonally left to right.

1. Climb up the face to a ledge, Go diagonally left to a small overhang. Pull onto a ledge.

2. Go left, pull up on jugs and diagonally left to a handrail. Traverse right to a bucket-stance.

3. Start on the right, climb diagonally left and up. Traverse right to the skyline, over a bulge and to a stance on the right.

4. Climb diagonally right on jugs.

5. Move left through a steep rounded section to the top.

"The obvious layback crack up the amphitheatre. Mega!"

A superb route that takes the obvious crack in the grey wall left of the Gendarme. Scramble up to a higher ledge below the long overhang which blocks access directly into the crack. The route climbs the smooth face immediately right of the easy Kayaman crack.

1. From the block climb to the rail and up past more rails which lead rightwards to a long ledge. Walk right to a curved scoop.

2. Move up the scoop and back left to a rail. Go right and up before moving left to a ledge. Climb into the crack to a hanging belay just higher.

3. Climb past the roof and up the crack. Stance on the right.

4. Climb the break and wall to the top (65m).

The feature is a huge two thirds up the face, above which is the prow on the skyline. Scramble up the gully to a large ledge (level with the second rappel down the chimney. Traverse 20m left to a beacon.

1. Climb the face, then traverse left along the rail until able to move up and right to a ledge. Walk 10m right.

2. Climb diagonally left and to the base of a pillar.

3. Climb the chimney on the left of the pillar, continue to a small stance. Move up and left through an undercling flake to stance on blocks below the huge roof.

4. Step down and go left. Move up under the roof and rail left to the lip. Pull through to a stance.

5. Climb to the top, keeping left of the nose.

The corner/crack on the right-hand side of the wall.

On the bottom, right hand side of the wall the ground rises up to meet a short ledge. On the left this ledge ends at a short, blunt, undercut prow about 10m off the ground. Grimposaurus starts just left of this prow at ground level (i.e. below the ledge).

1. Start up a crack just left of the small roof (undercut prow). Continue slightly left into the obvious, big crack which heads up and back right towards the top.

C. North, R. Halsey & M. Thilo

On the bottom, right hand side of the wall the ground rises up to meet a short ledge. On the left this ledge ends at a short, blunt, undercut prow about 10m off the ground. Start at the left hand end of the ledge.

1. Climb up and left to pass the roof at ~8m on its left. Head up to a narrow, slightly leftward tending, layback crack. Climb this and then continue straight up to the top.

On the front of the Gendarme is a square recess capped by a roof. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. Climb the off-width, move right and up the wall tending diagonally left to a ledge.

2. Walk left to a corner leading up tot he roof. Climb up and traverse left to a layback crack breaking through.

Start about 30m right of the Amphitheatre route. Scramble up a crack to the upper ledge.

1. Start on the left, climb a short face and across to the open book. Take-off from blocks and go up the recesses. Exit left.

2. Climb diagonally to where it is possible to go straight through a roof above.

3. Traverse right on good rails.

4. Climb through the crack in the overhang. Climb the crack on the left. Handrail right until able to move diagonally back left.

5. Traverse left and climb thin wall just right of the bottomless crack.

6. Move left and up 15m. Traverse right and up to the highest of two giant ledges.

7. Start from behind a large block on the right, and climb a crack. Move right to a cubbyhole and stance further right.

8. Move up to the overhang and through to the top.

In the middle of the amphitheatre is a prominent orange-grey recess capped by a large triangular overhang. The route starts directly below this overhang on a large block 10m left of KK. Scramble up to the upper ledge.

1. From the block, pull up onto the face. Up a recess to a ledge. Continue up to a small stance.

2. Climb the crack to the roof. Move left into the red recess and up to a block stance below the upper roof.

3. Traverse right and climb up to ledge. Continue up through a roof to a grassy ledge. Traverse right to belay at the end of the ledge.

4. Move across a slab 5m. Pull through a roof. Traverse diagonally right to a block ledge. Drop down and rail into a recess. Climb to a dassie ledge below a roof. Move 5m back left to a grassy ledge.

5. Move diagonally across rightwards to jugs leading upwards slightly left, steeply, up to a stance on the right.

6. Move left to the lip of a small roof on the left. Easier climbing up to a ledge.

7. Continue up to a higher ledge.

8. Climb a recess, just before a smooth wall on the right. Continue to a stance on blocks below a large roof.

9. Move left on a flake below the roof. continue up and left to the next set of roofs. Pull through where a crack splits the roof and go to the the top.

On the far right hand side of the main amphitheatre, about 30m past the layback crack of Indecent Exposure's first pitch, is a big, dark red recess with a crack in the corner. The route goes up the crack then skirts the roofs above. It then follows a couple more corners before some immaculate face climbing to finish on the big, grassy halfway ledge. Start on a platform below a block at the base of the corner.

1. Climb up the block to access the crack. Climb the corner until the crack runs out then traverse left on the rail until below the next recess. Climb this recess to the roof then rail right and up onto an awkward, grassy ledge below another corner.

2. Climb the short, steep corner exiting left at the roof onto a large ledge. Climb the layback corner above on the right for 10m and then proceed up the juggy face to stance just below the black streaked headwall.

3. Move up and left and pull through the roof at a shallow, orange recess. Move slightly right onto a line of huge holds. Continue straight up and exit via the left hand of two cracks onto the big ledge. Alternatively, at grade 20, follow the steep, leftward trending flake from the stance to the black crack which is used to turn the roof. Then stretch out left to the line of huge holds.

Descent: traverse right on the large, grassy ledge and then either down climb the frontal, rap it, or scramble/climb up it to the top.

Start Towards the right side of the amphitheatre at two small slabs leaning against the face.

1. Start 8m right of one slab, head up a diagonal crack. Climb this until able to traverse left across to a stance

2. Start in the corner on the right. Climb the crack and go left to a ledge.

3. Climb left then right to a ledge. Traverse left and scramble further left to a platform.

4. Climb up to a traverse line and follow it left.

5. Climb the recess on the left to a ledge. Walk right until the end of the roof.

6. Climb the crack, go left and up. Go leftwards into a chimney and up to a ledge.

7. On the left is a recess leading into a crack. Start up this and onto the rib on the right. Gain a smooth slab and hence a ledge.

8. Move right and up. Traverse right and into a gully to the top.

A variation of Indecent Exposure and On Hold. Climbs the superb first pitch of Indecent Exposure. Then climbs and extends the second pitch of On Hold. Lastly, it adds a new, long pitch up to the big halfway ledge.

1. Climb the leftward tending layback crack (pitch 1 of Indecent Exposure). Traverse left just below the bushy rail and up to the stance directly below the crack (pitch 2 of On Hold).

2. Ascend the crack as in the second pitch of On Hold but pass the gnarly ledge on the right and go to the next ledge on the left.

3. Ascend the face to the right of the stance to another ledge. Climb the rounded crack to the roof. Move left and pull through the obvious break in the roof. Move a couple of metres right, and ascend the face to the massive ledge.

Descent: traverse right on the large, grassy ledge and then either down climb the frontal, rap it, or scramble/climb up it to the top.

D. Steyn, F. Buhrmann, J. Wakeling

Walk around from KK (15mins) to where a gully leads up to a notch. On the right is a series of dihedrals capped by a 15m roof. Start at the base of the most undercut corner on the right.

1. A bouldery start allows access to an excellent corner past two small roofs to a ledge.

2. Climb up to a semi-hanging belay under the first roof.

3. Rail left, up to the big roof. Escape to a ledge.

4. Move left, climb 4m up to a roof and rail 10m right. Go for the top.

Single pitch that climbs the centre of the face to the left of the final pitch on Staggersaurus. Abseil in from the top to the ledge about 50m down.

From the ledge head up and right towards the arete until able to pull onto the face. Traverse back left and follow a series of layback features to a narrow roof. Pull through the roof and then continue straight up the face until the top.

Start on orange rock and climb the face

Sit start and follow obvious jug curve

Climb the slab.

Sit start with large holds and climb the brain.

Sit-start with flake and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the crack

Left of Orange Heart

Sit-start and climb up the juggy face opposite to Olive's Preserve Cupboard.

Sit start at the lower left corner, climb up and traverse right to the finish of Orange Power.

Solo up into groove.

Climb the high arête/flake feature.

Crouch start from a jug and climb up

Start from the obvious jug. climb up through the small roof and top out

Sit start and climb to the arete. fragile rock!

Start on the left, traverse right and climb up.

Sit start

Start on same hold as Mass action, then traverse left. Once at the arete go up and traverse left. End on jug (not a top out)

Near the first set of Highline anchors as you walk up the valley on the right.

Up the dihedral then finish up the face.

Climbs the crack.

Climb up to the right of a bush and up to a ledge and finish up the center of the 'gable'.

From the ledge, Start below corner, climb up and right to ledge and continue and to nice stance in the corner.

Climb onto ledge. Start below black pebbles rock with 3 small vertical cracks. Climb straight up. The last band is mossy and needs a clean , climbing out right is advised.

Climb up through rail to a big lockoff move into a diagonal licened seam, continue up straight up.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.

Next valley right of Fields of Joy Driving into the campsite you can see an orange/brown wall on the right of Fields of Joy.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.