Routes in Western Cape for selected grade

Sit start using diagonal break for hands. Move straight up to another diagonal edge and TO.

Sit start, Right hand on a crimp, left up to crimpy gaston, right to the slopey crimp, left to crimpy gaston. Top out on the flat hold ignoring the arete.

Sheldon Smith

Start on same crimps as for The Handbag but climb straight up to TO.

Beta Video

Video

Sitstart on the split crescent shaped boulder near the graffiti and do a tricky stand to the horizontal ledge. Traverse right all the way around the boulder, staying low and never using the top holds. Stay low on the slopey overhung finale using devious heel-hookery until the crux (last moves to pass the corner and exit on dark grey rock).

Landry Lushima

Bold and exposed top out

Sitstart using jugs next to the tree. Traverse right, staying low under the first roof, through the open book and crux corner. Continue right, staying low around the next two corners (including the final roof) to finish up above the slab.

Stand Start high left hand, low right hand and climb up the blunt arete.

Landry Lushima

Start low and climb the arete

Sit start in the crack, continue to climb the roof crack following it out of the cave. Once out in the open climb the vertical crack to top out.

Video Amazing Grace, 2nd ascent

Climb the face right of Excalibur.

Sit-start on an incut rail and move up on nothing holds.

Sit-start just right of Lonestar Arête, move RH to Beach Babes' vertical slot and top-out direct.

Sit-start on an edge on black rock.

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Bum start in underclings, move up to a good edge on the right and top-out.

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Climb the seam up the very high wall.

3rd Ascent by Landry Lushima

Low SS with LH on small layaway and RH on good layaway, climb to TO.

Landry Lushima

Eliminate problem. See video below.

By Sheldon Smith

Awesome climb, instead of using slopey jug on Dionysus use crimpy undercling - Sheldon

Climb Another Winner (Variation 1) to the rail, then downclimb Snail Trail to join Overconfidence

Eliminate. Start as for Corporal Punishment, then do a big move out right to a crimp and continue moving right using a long crimp to top out next to the tree. The good holds of Memories are off. Video here.

Stand start with BH on edge in the middle of the face, up to the hollow above, RH to pinch, TO straight up.

Start as for U19 Girls Basketball and move left to join Swim.

The Holy Grail start, into Auto Eject.

Sit start to freak of the week

Climb as for Leftfield, this time using the holds up right. The arête is off.

Stand start on a reinforced hold and move up to the lip.

Climb as for Unnamed 1 but head up right to a crimp.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the 'Captain Hook' rail.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the hook rail.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right 2m and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings. Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of 'Jeopardy' to 2 more pegs and the 'Captain Hook' rail (the end of 'Jeopardy'). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Start as for 'Roulette Arête'.

Left of 'Roulette'

Roof to the right of Cukoo's nest.

Sit-start on jug (x), left hand to mono (x), right hand to small gaston (x), left hand to fat sloper (x), right hand to fat sloper (x), left hand to black jug (x), right hand to jug (x).

The rail close to the starting hold is off for feet!

• Sit-start with left hand on little pocket on the far right of the boulder (x) and right hand on edge above it (x),

• Left hand to Porthole top left (x), right hand to Porthole,

• Left hand to positive edge left of the crack (x), right hand match,

• Left hand to small mono below(x), right hand to low layaway at the bottom of the crack (x),

• Left hand to big pocket left of lower crack (x),

• Right hand to Porthole (x), left hand to Porthole (x),

• Right hand to jug on arête (?),

• Left hand to little pocket back at start (x), right hand to edge at start (x),

• Left hand to undercling pocket out left (x),

• Right hand to Porthole (x),

• Right hand to triangular sloper above and to the left of the crack (x),

• Left hand to fat sloper further left (x), right hand to top (x).

Rail is on for feet.

Huge dyno from the rail to the white jug on the lip.

Sit-start with left hand on a good pocket and move up left to the big bad sloper.

Sit-start on the rail on the left and traverse right via small sidepulls and a pocket to the lip.

Climbs the face/arete opposite cytokine. Start one hand on sloper and other low on arete and climb up to the glory jug

Start like deep reflection but go up face the storm

Start on left undercling and right crimp. Left toe hook then climb the amazing roof and top out by the wedged boulder.

start exactly like violence in the mind of the viewer but go right and climb along the lip on some shallow pockets and flakes until a good left hard pocket into a hard right hard cross over on wierd top out ending almost on the end of the prow. Very long and the rock quality isn’t the best in places but it’s not as bad as it looks and I recommend it!

Starts on the far left and climb into scoop undercling before doing a big move strait up and exiting direct

SS and use crimp to lunge for the top.

Open

Alan Hills

Sitstart on crimp rail, LH up to crimp via gaston, then climb the face diagonally rightward to TO on the corner. (Holds in and left of the crack are off).

Sitstart on block/crimp, throw to small crimp with RH. Climb straight up to TO. Boulder on the left is off.

Sitstart under under small roof, LH in sidepull/undercling, RH on crimp, big move with RH to sloper on lip, then move up and L to TO via the obvious vertical crack/break.

Sitstart as for Meat Weed Madness, cross over with LH up to flake/crimp up R, TO. Jugs up left (Meat Weed Madness) are off.

SS as for Dark Lord Sharon, climb straight up the face via dyno, TO

Climb Four Singers, instead of topping out up the blunt arête, move R along sloper rail and top out just L of the R corner

SS on good holds on lip of prow, climb straight up, TO. R arête off

Stand start at the end of the thin rail, climb straight up the high face, TO

Starting on the base pedestal adds 6 moves into Anarchy. Fantastic compression problem.

Send footage at 01:58

SS with LH on sloper, RH on diagonal ledge, LH up to a small edge, TO straight up.

Like project 3 but use the right sidewall. ("low 7s")

Enhance your life by climbing this route on trad gear:

Joe

Or just do it the normal way, and clip the bolts. Climb up to the big roof, find your way through this and into the crux of Germanator.

Twat Vier, Broken, and Stolen Secrets all share the same start. At the big roof, where Stolen Secrets veers right, continue straight, pull through the lip and up to the chains.

Sit start on the right. climb diagonally left on huecos, crimps, slopers, underclings, pockets and jugs. Completely brilliant - tall and stiff for the grade.

📹 Julia Chen

On the boulder to the right of Planet Telex Boulder. Sit starts with an undercling/sidepull for your left hand and a crimp for your right, then move up to the heuco and straight up to top out. See this cutloose post.

Sit start on the layaway climb on good holds and then a couple of painful crimps into the crack on the L. Move up to the jug.

Cool sloper problem on the opposite side to the captain graffiti boulder - Adam Ludford

Sit start as for Ryan Was Here then climb left as for that problem, at the good hold on the arete, continue left and up across the face to top out as for Doubt and Expectation.

Right hand arete pinch and dyno to jug then TO

Start as for through the core but finish up the wasp.

Sit start in the big right facing rail and do 1 move to gain the starting holds of The Beast, then do that problem.

SS on jugs below Pudgy Bitch traverse left on crimps to join

Climb The Waspinator but continue and TO as for Bee's Niques

Crouch start with right hand on sloper sidepull and left hand on sloper scoop, climb straight up through roof via hueco, exit left up and over the lip on slopers. Block under the roof is out because it is not attached to the boulder

Landry Lushima

Start as for Creature. once you're in the big underclings, move out right and top out as for Amoeba

Sit start at the back of the roof (feet on the rucksack-sized block) climb along the discontinuous flake/seam to the lip, then to top out. Could be harder for tall climbers! Poor bastards.

📽️ Ascent by Rachelle de Charmoy at 5:01

The direct start to Warp Speed, wall on the right is out.

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

right of Full Throttle

Thomas Luger

Catarina Monteiro

Landry Lushima

Sit start on the sloper and climb up then left and end with a jump.

Jarryd New

"Not sure if this is meant to be an eliminate but felt more like 7A or it’s just a reach thing." - Jarryd New