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Suri-san, Mae-bawi

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 76
  • Aka: 매바위

Seasonality

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Description

Mae-bawi boasts of great high-angle face climbs with highly featured thin crack lines on granite rock. It offers something different to enjoy at every turn. The wall faces south. This crag is a hidden gem among the crags in Gyeonggi Province 경기.

Approach

Take the subway to Geumjeong 금정 or Sanbon Station 산본 (Line #4). Take a bus heading to Gunpo Library 군포도서관 and get off there. Walk up the long steep straight path up the mountain, a little past the temple, where the little man with the solar panel hat stands, the path forks, take the trail path (ie not the paved or matted path) for about 5-10 mins until the path seems to stop where you will find a smaller trail on your left leading up to the crag. A little ways up this path you will see the crag on your right.

Descent notes

Gear 10 draws and a 50m rope. Safety This crag is well bolted with good anchors. Additional Comments Even though it’s a bit of a small crag, I would say it is one of the best sport climbing areas in Seoul.

Routes

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Grade Route

Note: as can be understood by the route name, you are not allowed to use the crack (or any part of the wall to the left of the crack) for this route. Also, any "terrace"/shelf on the right side is off-limits.

On the tall vertical wall, to the right of Noddang. Note that this route has a 5.11a variation if you keep to the left up until the second bolt.

Note: The 5.12b variation goes straight up the vertical part until the 3rd bolt; the arrete on the right is off-limits for this part.

A variation of Wing Jikdeung, where you can use the arrete on the right to make life easier.

The route to the far right in the main crag, next to Hwang Punch (and its variation).

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Mon 29 May
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