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Soñar con ... All Sport climbing 17 routes in sector

17
FR
5c6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+

Seasonality

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Description

A little bit upstream of 'El cielo nocturno' this shady crag makes you enjoy some nice classic lines, dihedrals and cracks in absolute silence. It makes you dream of ...

Weiter flussaufwärts folgt nach dem 'El cielo nocturno' dieser kleine schattige Sektor mit seinen schönen klassischen Linien. Verschneidungen, Risse und auch einen luftiger Übertritt kann man dort in völliger Ruhe geniessen. So kommt es, dass man sich schnell mal an einem anderen Ort wähnt.

Un poco mas alla del 'El cielo nocturno' este sector sombroso te hace disfrutar unas lineas clasicas, fisuras y diedros en un entorno muy silencioso. Te hace soñar con ...

Ethic inherited from Aragon

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Montaraz Climbing Club (Copyright Montaraz Climbing Club)

Routes

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1
6a+ ★ Cara Sport 15m, 6

Set: Alejandra Risquez, Mirko & Calodedio, 16 May 2015

FFA: Mirko & Calodedio, 16 May 2015

2
6a ★★ Snake Sport 14m, 6

The blanc section shortly after the start can be solved surprisingly easy with some monos. If you know where to find and reach them. Short but worth doing. Same anchors as Dike.

Die plattige Stelle kurz nach dem Einstieg kann erstaunlich einfach mit Hilfe einiger Fingerlöcher bewältigt werden. Wenn man weiss wo sie sind und man die nötige Länge hat. Kurz aber Lohnenswert. Gemeinsamer Stand mit Dike.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Mirko, 27 Oct 2014

FFA: Mirko, 27 Oct 2014

3
6c ★ Dike Sport 11m, 5

Less pockets than usual in this sector but some side pulls to deal with. Diversified climbing on that short route.

Untypisch wenige Löcher dafür einige Leisten und Kanten zum pressen. Sehr abwechslungsreich auf die wenigen Meter.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Nicky, 27 Oct 2014

FFA: Nicky, 27 Oct 2014

4
5c ★ Salvados del trigo Sport 10m, 5

Set: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, May 2016

5
6b ★★ Frankenjura Sport 14m, 8

A crimpy start leads to a nice dihedral followed by a headwall with smooth pockets almost like the pocket puling in Frankenjura.

Ein kleingriffiger Start führt in eine schöne Verschneidung und einer Headwall mit ergonomischen Löscheren fast wie im Frankenjura .

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Mirko, Sep 2014

FFA: Nicky, 26 Oct 2014

6
7b+ El fofo Sport 16m, 8

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Pel Anchon, 9 Jul 2016

7
6c ★★ Langtang Sport 18m, 10

Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg mit einer Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Calodedio, Jun 2016

FA: Pel Anchon, Jun 2016

8
6c+ Langtang directa Sport 17m, 9

Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg ohne die Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Calodedio, Jun 2016

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9
7b Mermelada de cerezas Sport 18m, 7

Set: Carlos Tudela, Calodedio & Mirko, 18 Jun 2017

10
6a ★★ ... el diedro Fehrmann Sport 14m, 6

A prototype corner: nice but never really easy.

Eine prototypische Verschneidung - schön aber doch nie ganz einfach.

Un diedro prototipico, bonito pero nunca de verdad facill.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Mirko, Nicky & Anika, 2013

FA: Anika, 2013

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11
6b ★★ ... el Elbsandstein Sport 14m, 7

Start on top of the boulder with a committing step into the right traverse. Sustained on good holds to the top of the crag - various and recommended.

Start vom Block mit Übertritt und dann ein kurzer Rechtsquergang. Anschliesend henklig aber pumpig den Riss bis zum Umlenker - Abwechslungsreich und empfehlenswert.

Comienza encima el bloque con un paso expuesto, seguido por una travesia hacia la derecha y una fisura de continuidad. Variada y muy recomendada.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set: Mirko & Johannes Petzold, 2013

FA: Johannes Petzold, Mirko & Nicky, 2013

12
7a ★★ Babilonia Sport 18m, 9

Set: Mirko & Calodedio, 5 May 2015

FFA: Pel Anchon, 10 May 2015

13
7a+ ★★ Acción invertida Sport 18m, 9

Set: Mirko & Calodedio, 14 Aug 2015

14
7b ★★ Sakys, big problem Sport 18m, 8

Placa vertical y técnica sobre pequeñas regletas.

Set: Calodedio, Pel Anchon & Alejandra Risquez, 18 Oct 2015

15
6c+ ★★ Nabuco Sport 18m, 9

Set: Calodedio & Alejandra Risquez, 2 May 2015

16
7a ★★ Oneironaut Sport 18m, 9

Set: Mirko & Tobi, 27 Mar 2016

FFA: Tobi, 27 Mar 2016

17
6b ★★ ... el lado oscuro Sport 12m, 6

The nice and technical start is followed by a sustained section until the anchors.

Nach einem schönen technischen Start folgen einige anhaltende Züge bis zum Umlenker.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

FFA: Calodedio, 31 Aug 2014

Set: Alejandra Risquez, Mirko & Calodedio, 31 Aug 2014

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Date: 2023

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7a+ ★★ Acción invertida

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on ★★ Frankenjura 6b

on ★★ ... el diedro Fehrmann 6a

on ★★ ... el Elbsandstein 6b - DSC06518.JPG

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