Routes in Málaga for selected grade

(6b variante directa)

(6b variante perlita)

some guides says it is a 6b+, but it is a mistake with the next route.

El nombre de la vía está en la pared.

The name of the route can be seen on the wall

Starts up an easy slab below a large hole, then trends slightly left up the line of white holds.

A beautiful long pitch with some amazing holds, albeit some are polished. The route name is written in white at the start of the route. Latest Rockfax and 2022 local guidebook grade it 6a.

THE classic multi-pitch in 'El Chorro'. Now fully bolted up to the end of pitch 8 for where 4 x 35m abseils will get you back to the ground. The bolting is somewhat spaced in places so it may be worth taking some supplementary gear if this is at your limit. Gear is also useful for the 9th pitch which is otherwise a steep, bolt-less scramble with quite a lot of loose stones. The popularity of this route have left their mark, especially on the crux sections of pitch 4 and 5. Those 6a may feel well on the upper end of the scale therefore. Semi hanging belays add to the joy. A top class route. Look out for the mini Budda in a pocket come hole.

For the descent there are several options. Some people abseil back down the route from the top of pitch 5. In case you continue until the end of pitch 8, you can abseil via a 4x35m abseil piste. A third option is to continue up the easy 9th pitch. From the top of pitch 9 follow red points upwards right to a notch in the skyline. From there follow cairns and red dots down right into the valley, which will eventually turn left and lead you to the exit path of Caminito del Rey.

Long but the Rock is a bit rubbish in places.

A nice little expedition. The slightly overhanging crux in pitch 3 is well protected. Slab and vertical climbing everywhere else. The description in the Rockfax guide is confusing – Just follow the bolts.

There are new belays in P1 and P2, so that the route is possible with a 60m rope. There are bolts that continue above, but grading and extent is unknown.

The start of the route is marked by a tag with the name on the wall. Beautiful, easy climbing on good rock, although care should be taken with some loose rock. Well bolted and with comfortable belays. Descent is made by rappelling down the other side (70 m rope needed; rappel anchor just next to the last belay) and then following a path that leads down to the upper crag of Escalera Arabe.