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La Vall Verda

Seasonality

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Description

Bonito peñasco que ofrece una selección bastante variada de estilos de escalada. Lugar tranquilo y resguardado, que puede resultar muy agradable incluso en los días de invierno.

Nice little crag offering a quite varied selection of climbing styles. Calm and sheltered place, which can be very pleasant even at winter days.

Access issues inherited from Serra de Tramuntana

Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.

Before 5/2020, you could apply by sending the following two signed documents plus a copy of your ID document (driving licence or passport) to the email autoritzacions@dgmambie.caib.es

For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.

Article with map.

Approach

(39.571223, 2.453223)

Desde la carretera de Palma a Andratx, tomar la salida hacia Es Capdellà. Después de 3 km, toma una pequeña calle a la izquierda (gran cartel de madera "Itinerari de la Vall Verda") que pronto se convierte en un camino de tierra. Después de aproximadamente 1 km hay un aparcamiento a mano derecha. A pie, siga la carretera durante unos 100 metros hasta que vea una puerta. No cruces la puerta, toma un pequeño camino escondido a través del bosque para llegar a las rocas después de unos pocos metros.

From highway Palma to Andratx, take exit towards Es Capdellà. After 3km, take a small street to the left (big wooden sign "Itinerari de la Vall Verda") that soon turns into a dirt road. After about 1km there is a parking at the right side. By foot, follow the road for about 100 metres until you see a gate. Don't cross the gate, take a small hidden path right through the woods to reach the rocks after few metres.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Buena escalada técnica de pared sin un quid definido. Comience a la izquierda de un pequeño arbusto, luego suba principalmente hacia arriba.

Good technical wall climb without distinct crux. Start left of a small bush, then climb mostly straight up.

Buena técnica y escalada de pared de dedos. Comience en un pedestal pequeño, suba la pared pasando a la derecha de una gota de toba hasta un desnivel, luego de nuevo con los dedos para llegar a un final malabarista.

Good technical and fingery wall climb. Start on a small pedestral, climb the wall passing right of a tufa blob to an undercling, then again fingery to reach a juggy finish.

Arriba y engañoso alrededor del copo hacia un terreno más fácil. Los metros finales son duros pero se pueden evitar por el lado izquierdo.

Up and tricky around the flake into easier ground. The final metres are hard but can be avoided on the left side.

Escalada variada con dificultades cambiantes. Crimpy comienza a ganar un copo, síguelo un poco antes de pasar directamente a la losa. Al final, un movimiento delgado e incómodo en una ranura (¡crux!). De allí sube por los salientes naranjas, pasando por un desnivel intermedio hasta el final tras un corto desplome fácil.

Varied climbing with changing difficulties. Crimpy start to gain a flake, follow it a bit before moving right into the slab. At its end, awkward thin move into a slot (crux!). From there up through the orange bulges, passing an intermediate lower-off to the final one after a short easy overhang.

Nuevo recorrido a la izquierda del barranco.

New route left of the gully.

Nuevo recorrido a la derecha del barranco.

New route right of the gully.

Nuevo recorrido (duro) a la derecha del barranco.

New (hard) route right of the gully.

Espectacular línea solitaria camino a "Tres reyes". Comienzo complicado y buenos movimientos de relajación en jarras enormes hacia la parte superior. Parece más difícil de lo que es.

Spectacular lone line on the way to "Tres reyes". Tricky start and nice layback moves on huge jugs towards the top. Looks harder than it is.

Largo y agradable largo en pared solitaria en el extremo derecho de la peña, fácil para el grado. Muévase hacia arriba hasta una arete y sobre ella (varias variaciones posibles), luego airee hacia abajo.

Long and nice pitch on lone wall at the right end of the crag, easy for the grade. Move up to an arete and over it (several variations possible), then airy to the lower-off.

Grieta y ranura sobresalientes más bien cortas en roca resbaladiza. Se requiere un juego de pies preciso y brazos fuertes. El cuarto perno es horrible de cortar.

Rather short overhanging crack and groove on slick rock. Precise footwork and strong arms required. 4th bolt is awful to clip.

La pared embolsada corta está desesperada.

The short pocketed wall is desperate.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Alan James, Mark Glaister and Daimon Beail

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781873341186

A selective guidebook describing a wide selection of sport routes and the Deep Water Soloing (DWS) on the island of Mallorca. It covers nearly 1,500 sport routes from F3 to F9a+, and nearly 400 deep water soling routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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