Routes in Mallorca for selected grade

Starts with a slab to the immediate left of Pequeño coati

Rockfax 2020 5a, consenso de la comunidad 5b/c.

Rockfax 2020 5a, community consensus 5b/c.

Very hard start from left to a good jug right, then varied climbing up. The first move is the crux and is found much harder than the given grade by most.

Desequipado.

5a in 2020 Rockfax.

Left-hand line of bolts up the slab, trending right towards the top.

Nice and friendly route for beginners, full of jugs. In general it has less polished and slippery holds than the neighbour routes.

Gear: 2x50+m ropes, 10 quickdraws, slings, cams, medium-sized nuts.

It's a good rock except for 1st pitch. 4th pitch (traverse) is fully bolted (3 bolts) Approach: fixed ropes starting at (39.80865° N, 2.80338° E), do not follow them until the end! branch off leftwards at the height of ~1020m and scramble up the grassy canal until you see an old piton. Here is the start of the route

Rappel: Rappel 50m from the top, then walk towards fixed ropes ~25m (direction SW towards Pa de Figa), follow the fixed rope to the ledge with the next belay station, rappel another 50m, and scramble down to the approach path.

For more technical details see the article: https://www.grime.cc/multipitch/

(taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

Consists of some very rusty bolts on the left hand side of the canyon's end, at some 8 meters from the sea. Original name unknown. It's advisable to take some slings to make additional anchoring points. The final anchor consists of a central ring connected to two bolts by small pieces of rope.

5b in 2009 guidebook.

5b in 2009 guidebook.

5b in 2009 guidebook.

Listed as route "V" in 2009 guidebook.

Left of groove

(39.780525, 2.898503) Pass the yellow triangle on its right side.

Rockfax 2020 5a.

Rockfax 2020 5c.

Rockfax 2020 5b.

Rockfax 2020 5b.

Al primer camino se llega por la derecha. Rutas ordenadas en sentido de aproximación de derecha a izquierda.

First route you reach from the right. Routes ordered in approach direction right to left.