A major icefall. First section is 60-80 dgr for 180 m. First part can be simul climbed in two long pitches using the bolted belays. It can also be pitched in 4 pitches. Second part normally done in 3 pitches is 120 m and 85-90 degrees. (when we did it, this can vary with conditions. But consider that it is graded WI 5+ which is sustained steep ice climbing)
Park at roadside parking were you can see the icefall on the other side of the river. Hike down into river-bed and cross river on the snow then hike up to start of climb. Sections with rock and steep grass under snow.
Rappel down from some slings around tree (top) and bolted belays as well as Abalakov threads.
First climbed in 1980's.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler
Date: 2023
ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2
Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).
Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen
Author(s): Adi Stocker
Date: 2014
ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1
On the 44,000 meters of climbing researched for this book, epochal alpine milestones mingle with enjoyable new route creations. Climbing legends such as Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi and Heinz Zak comment on their passion for steep rock. Routes by climbing greats from long ago, such as Angelo Dibona or Hias Rebitsch, have been accurately recorded in line with modern requirements. There is also plenty of space dedicated to new routes secured with bolts by creative talents such as Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger and the author himself. 40 long routes with at least 20 pitches, where you can clip bolts in keeping with the spirit of the times, but sometimes also have to make do with rusty protection.
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680513
All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.
WI5+ | ★★★ Thron |
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