Routes in Alpen for selected grade

Right of 'Bastard'. It has many screwed/glued in rocks as artificial holds.

Climb in via 'Ostgrat'. Difficult crack climbing.

Nuts and slings, maybe friends 2-3

P1 to P12 lead up to the top of "Rot Turm". The final pitches P13-P19 lead up "Freiheit" and are accessed by abseiling 20m and 45m from the top of P12 (see seperate entry for top-part of route).

Topo available for download from website of Thomas Wälti.

Bring a set of nuts and 4-5 small to medium cams.

Friends and slings

Topo and description by Thomas Wälti can be found on his website.

6b, 6a

Steep slab and hole climbing.

Nur Top-Rope. Keine Zwischensicherungen / Bohrhaken vorhanden

Adventurous and varied climb through the left part of the Filderchöpf north face.

Einstieg über die ersten zwei Sl von Schweine im Regen

Ausstieg über die letzten zwei SL "Rotkäppchen"

Nach 15 m von "No nöl schare" links über Wulst

Belay bolted. 2 racks friends, nuts and hex nuts. 2x50m. Some bolt are present in the critical passage but need definitively extra protection. Mainly Friends from 0.5 until 5 max (BD). Double rack needed for #1,2,3,4.

Very nice route in the area. If you want to climb one good route in the area, this might be a very good choice.

Plan the approach and check the pictures to make sure you find the base easily.

Important info:

1. On the first pitch (with two anchors at the ground), if you take the leftish route (right seems like a new route), be aware that there will be a long run out (at 3rd bolt). Stick to the right crack which is much easier than the left side. When belaying I was ready to run down the slope to avoid any ground fall.

2. the 6th pitch is rated 5c but feels more like a 6a/6a+ (Fabian has rated this 6a+ - Hubert rates 6a).

Topo on megusta.ch

Ausstieg über die letzten zwei Seillängen der "linken Silberi" auch möglich.

Material:

2x50m-Seile, 12 Express, evtl. Cams 0.3-0.75

Topo von stefs-bergsport.ch

Pause-Klassiker Topo von stefs-bergsport.ch

(6a obl.)

Topo can be found on chmoser.ch.

Mittig nach rechts queren