Routes in Alpen for selected grade

#SD

#sd #rl

Extension to the left and top of "Never Ending Story". Also climbed on rope as 8c+.

#sd #rlr

#sd #rl

#sd #rl

#expo

#rl

#rlr

#sd start with 'In search of time lost' and end in 'From darkness to sunshine'

#sd

The line is right behind Dinos don't Dynos and near Rythmo. Initially graded 8C but downgraded to 8B+ by Tim Reuser in 2021.

A direct start to the Power of Now.

#sd, #lr; Along underclings to "Rythmo Brachial"

#sd #rlrl

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

#sd

#sd #rl

#sd #lr

#sd #rl

SD

SD

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

Variant of 'La cène du lézard'. Start by 'Focus Pocus'.

Ends at the second anchor.

First move same as for "Permanent Midnight" but then straight up into the 50° roof.

Direct exit of Foundation Edge. Grade to be confirmed.

https://www.grimper.com/video-film-blocs-beaux-durs-coeur-alpes First problem of this video. On the banks of the borgne the Arolla near the path to the Tza hut.

kletterblock.de reported

Discovered by Dave Graham. FA by Giuliano Cameroni (video).

sit start to Alphane Moon and a new added top out

A fun old project that starts just to the left of Alphane.

'Boogalagga' with sit start.

The old "Diamantenprojekt" by Bernd Zangerl

Left exit of "From Dirt Grow The Flowers".

#SD

Just next to 'Taijutsu'.

A direct version of "Fight Club".

Considered the benchmark for 8c (V15). First confirmed 8C in history, by Dave Graham. Five years earlier, Fred Nicole had proposed 8C for Dreamtime, on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+

Sit start.

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Same start as Dreamtime. Straight upwards. Originally graded 8C+ but downgraded by Paul Robinson in 2020 to 8B+.

Sit start.

kletterblock.de reported

Exact location unknown, please move to the right area if you know where it is.

8C hard or 8C+