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Route history

14 Jul 1865First ascent: Peter Taugwalder Jr., Edward Whymper, Peter Taugwalder Sr., Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas & Douglas Robert Hadow

On July 14, 1865, in what is considered the last ascent of the golden age of alpinism, Edward Whymper was able to reach the summit, guided by the famed French mountaineer Michel Croz and the Swiss father and son Peter Taugwalder Sr. and Jr., and accompanied by the British gentlemen Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, Douglas Robert Hadow.

Upon descent, Hadow, Croz, Hudson and Douglas fell to their deaths on the Matterhorn Glacier, and all but Douglas (whose body was never found) are buried in the Zermatt churchyard.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 45.97480, 7.66227

Grade citation

3- Assigned grade
III
3- private

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 80 from 14 ratings.

Difficulty - 3-

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

3-

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Target 1
Attempt 1
Onsight 2
Tick 14

Comment keywords

beautiful

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Sandro von Känel

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783906087580

A selective guidebook describing a selection of rock climbing and sport climbing routes at grades from F6b and above, in the Western Swiss Alps, including Freiburg, Bernese Oberland, Vaud, plus the entire area of the Valais.

Author(s): Olivier Roduit

Date: 2022

Sportklettergebiete an den Grenzen zu Frankreich und Italien, im Kanton Wallis - unzählig vielen Sportkletterrouten / topausgestattete Genusstouren im alpinen Gelände sowie klassische oder sportliche Mehrseillängen.

Author(s): Sandro von Kanel

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9783906087535

Die schönsten Klettergebiete vom Wallis über den Kanton Waadt bis in die Haute-Savoie und Chamonix.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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