Routes in Dreamtime

Sit start following the left hand side of the boulder. Fingery overhung climbing.

Vertical fingery climbing up the face to the right of 'Fantoman'. High!

Sit start. Reachy overhung problem.

Sit start. Standing start is 6a.

Sit start

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Easy slab.

Sit start up the arete.

Sit start.

The sit start is 7b.

Sit start then traverse.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Considered the benchmark for 8c (V15). First confirmed 8C in history, by Dave Graham. Five years earlier, Fred Nicole had proposed 8C for Dreamtime, on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+

Extension of "The Story of two Worlds".

Sit start.

Sit start.

The traverse.

Sit start. Very technical.

Sit start.

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Same start as Dreamtime. Straight upwards. Originally graded 8C+ but downgraded by Paul Robinson in 2020 to 8B+.

Same start as Dreamtime but right after the dyno into Somnolence.

Sit start.

Intense traverse on really small holds, very hard move in the middle part. not less than 8C

Initially graded 8B+ but a key hold broke, 8C+ proposed by Martin Keller.

Sit start.

High! Can finish before the final slab section for 7a.

Sit start. 7c/7c+.