Start on a big vegetated terrace just R of the
chimney base.
Climb vegetated chimney to highest tree, below a steepening (45m.). Now the R side of chimney over several overlaps (crux, one aid point used on 1st overlap); belay on chockstone a few m. up the narrower part of chimney (30m.). Continue more easily deep inside chimney to good tree belay below a steepening (40m.). The chimney, then move R to gain a comer and hence a slab (one aid point used on 1st ascent). The slab to easier ground on R and a big airy ledge (35m.). The difficult wall immediately behind, then through blocks to ledge on R. Above R-hand end of ledge a crack leads up and R; climb this, then a slab above to thickly vegetated ledges (45m.). Move down and across slab on R, then up more easily to gain a long easy ramp below red overhanging walls to a tiny cave
belay (35m.). Pull over cave roof, with or without aid, through bush to ledge (5m.). Traverse R to big open ledge (10m.); continue R below huge roofs; using a sling on a tree, tension down to a continuation of the traverse; after a few steep slab moves an easy traverse leads to tree belay below a chimney (35m.). Climb chimney and step R below chockstone to a ledge. Traverse R across a slab to a hidden ledge (35m.). Now go up easily to the top (20m.).
Descent: Follow ridge S till easy forest paths can be taken down or back to a biv. site.
The first route to tackle the main cliff. Initially it follows the prominent fault cutting cliff from bottom L to top R. The upper half takes a chimney and gullies to the summit. The fault itself is an immense system of vegetated gullies; it has been climbed in its entirety (V).
The first 150m. of R. 115 uses easy slabs R of the main fault till a horizontal ledge system is reached; above this is a steepening wall. Descend and cross (V) to L side of gully. Now a crack is followed on the extreme L of gully till a ledge is reached (biv. site on 1st ascent). A slab Rof the crack is climbed till
a traverse L rejoins the crack. Fine chimney climbing follows for 100m. until further progress looks uninviting. Make an exposed traverse R across buttress
on the R to enter a small gully and follow this to summit; there are 2 crux pitches (V) in this section; on the 1st ascent some aid was used on both.
