The Masters Voice All Trad climbing 12 routes in area

Original Description from Bryden Allen (1963) The Rock-Climbs of NSW

Total length 530 ft = 161 m

Goes up the magnificent black wall immediately after the land-slide. Takes an easier and safer line than the original Knights-mare but one is still a aware of some tremendous drops.

Start: On the right hand side of the very large block.

1. 80' (24m) Up the short wall trusting some horrible rock. Onto the ledge then battle up the chimney. Good tree belay.

2. 90' (27m) Up the obvious crack (as in Knights-mare). Lousy rock. A block belay or, much better, a bracket-type bolt belay.

3. 100' (30m) Doddle across the wall to a lousy bolt belay before some small bushes.

4. 90' (27m) Up to the trees. An extremely good piton runner (which is still there) hallfway up. Look back in conceit at having so easily crossed that terrifying looking wall.

5. 110' (33m) Up the gully. Technically the hardest part of the climb and a bolt runner might help. At the top a piton runner then traverse right to tree belay.

6. 60' (18m) Fairly easily up the rotten over hang above to the top.

Start

1. BA: Up the middle of the wall to the right of Constipation "Some fine wall climbing on small holds." Last pitch 'traverse easily now into "Constipation" or '"The Belfry" .

2. JME: Thin crack running up broken wall to right of Constipation. "A pleasant climb on good rock," Last pitch "either left into Constipation or right to finish up Belfry, or put up a direct finish" (was this the Iliad?)

3. TheCrag: Crack in middle of wall as for 'The Iliad'

1. BA: The first 2 pitches can be the same as Kadumba Gambit. A different start is further to the left.

2. JME: Left hand side of scrubby wall. (1) and (2) as for Kadumba Gambit, more or less.

Sublime 'Kedumba Gambit'

1. BA: On the left· hand side (of the Big Black Wall)

2. JME: Take the scrubby easy angled wall. Start in the corner chimney recess on the left.

A girdle traverse of the cliff from left to right.

1. 27m. As for Sexton. Bolt anchor.

2. E2 30m. Up 9m to ledge, traverse right to boulders (junction with Coffin Climb). Continue to bolt anchor of Evens. [K2 30m. Traverse right past Coffin Climb, then up to tree anchor.]

3. 27m. Right into garbage-filled gully; right again across slab to tree-filled gully. Tree anchor.

4. Wander across juggy wall [K4 across wall to Hocus Pocus #1]

5. Continue 4. [K5 Continue to Something #2. Tree belay.]

6. Continue 4.

7. Continue 4.

Bullet List

• Level 1 ** Level 2
• Level 1
• Level 1

Bryden says "Probably the best climb in the gorge - up good cracks, the belays are bad!

Start: Directly above the plague [sic] to Jack Murphy."

1994 description in SRC site http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Glenbrook+Gorge