Dream Wall - Ao Nang Multipitch All Sport climbing 1 route in cliff

FUN DEE

Dream Wall, Ao Nang

6b+, 138m (Plus 7a+ bonus 12m pitch)

Approach:

Go to Soi 11, PARK OPPOSITE SAINAI HOTEL, park in dirt pull out (do not park in hotel!), from parking walk straight towards rock. Follow the fixed line up (and to the right) all the way to the first bolt. The route is located left of the tree stump.

Google maps link, parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4LMBKVmmT1NwcPrP6

1. 30m, 15 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10c (6b) Start on okay rock past a stump. Then into great but tricky white pockets and side pulls. Belay at slot ledge.

2. 30m, 15 bolts 5.10b (6a+) Start in steep exposed climbing to a good rest and then up fantastic rock. Belay at nice hanging ledge 7m below the 420 bivy cave.

3. 25m, 13 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10a (6a) Climb more great rock past the 420 cave and through the chute. Back clean a draw or two to avoid drag. Belay at a hanging rap station OR move belay left to nicer ledge (must build own anchor on two bolts)

4. 30m, 14 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10d (6b+) Trend left to steep pocket cruxy move. Then some steep tuffa. Belay at a sharp ledge.

5. 23m, 9 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10b (6a+) Starts sharp and gets good with a cruxy compression move up high. Sick stem finale out to the mega diving board (which has free wifi)!

6. (bonus pitch) 12m, 5 bolts, 2 slings, 5.12a (7a+) Steep exposed tufa!

Make sure to sign the summit register when reaching the platform.

Descent:

6-5: lower to the diving board

5-4: abseil

4-3: swing right to anchor with ring

3-2: back clip in chute to stay in close to the wall (important!)

2-1: swing right to reach slot

1-ground: abseil

Required:

16 draws Single 60m rope Long anchor sling (optional)